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    Hi, been scrollin for years but just now thinking about using epoxy with pearlised powder for some inlay on dragons. any one with experience? any tips or pitfalls?

  • #2
    The turners use all sorts of stuff like that Inlace is one https://wood-acrylic-supply.com/?gcl...4aAtNKEALw_wcB
    If you just google inlace you may get adds for underwear
    I have bought some dyes for epoxy to repair a counter top but the regular 2 part epoxy was a bit to gummy after curing and I suspect would really gum up a blade or sandpaper. So I think the epoxy choice would be important. My nephew has been using a pressure pot to force out the small bubbles. His application is turning.
    Rolf
    RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
    Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
    Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
    And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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    • #3
      I just got through making some river coasters ( pic too big to post ), came out great. I used envirotex lite.
      2 part, used a gram scale to get the mixture exact.
      I just started trying it and wondered if any one else had any problems. I do see that it gums up sand paper.
      thanks for the reply
      Rick

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      • #4
        I downloaded a microsoft picture resizer free. To ise it I just right click on the image and it creates a smaller file size. Casting resins are probably a better choice. Google to see what others are using.
        Rolf
        RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

        Comment


        • #5
          Casting resins are the best for things like that. In the turners world they are used alot. Lately the new kid on the block is casting epoxy resins. There are so many resins out there and apply for different applications. But if you are after no bubbles and want to cast items within the resins and even color the resins than epoxy resin is the way to go. The 2 best ones on the market making all the noise these days is Liquid Diamonds and Royal Palm Resin. As I said these are clear epoxy resins that do not need a pressure pot to release bubbles. They will stick to just about anything thus the epoxy thing. They take a fair amount of time to cure so do not be in a rush but this means a longer open time to work if need be and the smell is not bad at all. If you go to polyester resins which are also very good casting resins the smell is strong and usually requires a pressure pot to take out the bubbles which happen when stirrring. Good luck.

          By the way they dry crystal clear and dry hard so no sanding is needed but if sanded then no clogging of sandpaper but now you need to polish it to get it shiny again.
          John T.

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          • #6
            At our club there has been lots of discussion on epoxy. Here is a link to a power point on the subject. Tells which type is used for different size gaps.

            http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com...s%20Lapine.pdf

            You say dragon inlays. I have just completed Steve Goods dragon jewelry box and filled with FIMO clay. It is straight black but they do have some clay with different effects. The inside of the box is flocked.
            Don McFarland ​Member - Durham Woodworking Club http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com/

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Don in Brooklin On View Post
              At our club there has been lots of discussion on epoxy. Here is a link to a power point on the subject. Tells which type is used for different size gaps.

              http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com...s%20Lapine.pdf

              You say dragon inlays. I have just completed Steve Goods dragon jewelry box and filled with FIMO clay. It is straight black but they do have some clay with different effects. The inside of the box is flocked.
              That looks great Don. How long did you bake the Polymer Clay?
              Denny
              ArtCrafters in Dayton, TN

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Sandy Oaks View Post

                That looks great Don. How long did you bake the Polymer Clay?
                I baked 30 minutes at 230F (110C) as per package. Steve Good does his at 265 for 25 to 30 minutes.
                Don McFarland ​Member - Durham Woodworking Club http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com/

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                • #9
                  Don, That is one of the projects I am working ( dragon box) on also, I wonder if I fill with the epoxy if it will "migrate under the top piece" when I fill? since it is a piece placed on a "backer of sorts'. I glued the piece on, spreading the glue on all the surface on back but wonder if it will seal .

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Don in Brooklin On View Post

                    I baked 30 minutes at 230F (110C) as per package. Steve Good does his at 265 for 25 to 30 minutes.
                    Thanks Don
                    Denny
                    ArtCrafters in Dayton, TN

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by rick.ther View Post
                      Don, That is one of the projects I am working ( dragon box) on also, I wonder if I fill with the epoxy if it will "migrate under the top piece" when I fill? since it is a piece placed on a "backer of sorts'. I glued the piece on, spreading the glue on all the surface on back but wonder if it will seal .
                      It depends on what type of epoxy system you are using. If you are using resin and hardner if will seek out the smallest of cracks. My friend who did the power point in my first response seals everything with the metal duct tape and then reseals again. The five minute epoxy system is more forgiving. He does a lot of river tables and when he does he runs a bead of hot glue around the hole he is filling so it sits a little proud of the hole and he can sand back. He has done a lot of experimenting but it turns out great. He mainly uses the West system for his tables.

                      I love to see how yours turns out.



                      Don McFarland ​Member - Durham Woodworking Club http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com/

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                      • #12
                        I have used several different epoxy. I use 5 and 15 minute epoxy for most things. I use the Bob Smith brand from Amazon. I mix it in small pill cups and measure by weight with a cheap small digital scale. One does need to be careful as it is not mixed one to one by weight and you have to check directions.

                        On the rocking chair I used System Three 88 which has a longer open time and takes 24 hours to set. I used the System Three coloring which is resin with color dissolved in it. I mixed the color in with the resin before adding the gardener. I mixed the gardener and resin by weight. It was 100 parts weight of resin to 83 parts by weight hardener.

                        I have also found that epoxy gets old and sometimes will not work properly.

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