Blade travel?

[Pop]

On one of the last threads I read that some use the reverse blades to eliminate some tear out on fretwork. I use them too, but they only work on thicker stock. Do the more expensive saws have the ability to adjust the blade travel to match the stock thickness so theses blades work on all stock? My saw is good for beginning but if I'm going to buy another in the future I'll want all the features that mean the most.

[CanadianScroller]

I do not know of too many saws that will allow you to change the position of the stroke that way.
In theory only the bottom part of the wood will splinter anyway and since it is all on the same cutting plane there should be no need for any adjustment.

If you want to try something place a thin piece of stock over the table as a new cutting surface, say maybe 1/8 or 1/4 inch, then try the cuts with the reverse blade.
See if there is any difference at the three levels.

[Mick Walker]

Pop, maybe I don't understand your statement, but if the reverse tooth blades work on thick stock why wouldn't they work on thin stock? The bottom side of the wood is where the reverse teeth cut on the upstroke thus they would work no matter the thickness of the wood.

[Jediscroller]

Pop,
If you use a reverse tooth blade on too thin of a piece, yes, the reverse teeth will come up through the top causing fuzzies (don't ask how I know this, hehehe). There are a couple of ways around it, I just stack cut anything under 1/2" or you could add an auxiliary table (as Carl mentioned) to the saw to raise the piece up. I do have the option of moving the arm on my Excalibur by about an inch to change the portion of the blade I'm using as well so this would also accomplish this. I believe the EX is the only saw with this capability.

[lucky788scroller]

put your blade in so the reverse teeth go less than 1/2 the thickness of your wood above the table. On thicker stuff, 1/4th inch above the table is plenty of reverse teeth pointing up , on the top of the upstroke. Dale

[Minnesota scroller]

Or, just stick to regular skiptooth. I started with reverse tooth but eventually switched to plain skiptooth. The tearout with small blades is so minimal that quickly running a torch over the backside takes care of the few frizzies that are there. I just finished torching 3 portraits this afternoon, that I cut with Olson size 0 skiptooth. I doubt it took a minute for each one, to clean them up nicely. If I recall, the reason I switched from reverse tooth is because, the greenhorn that I was, I had problems keeping the wood on the table. Now that I've switched, I doubt I'll ever go back.

[QTOFFER]

I haven't tried this, but I've read that you can trim the end of the blade a bit so that it sits lower in the bottom clamp.

[Pop]

DUH... never thought of moving the blade ends up or down in the holders! That's why this is the only site to go to for scroller info. Thanks!

[Greenfield_Bob]

I have trimed the end of some of my blades and it worked for me. I noticed the teeth on some of my blades aren't aren't spaced right.
I hope this makes any since.

Bob