Can anyone give me some reviews for the excaliber or the hegner? I am thinking about the hegner. What depth can I cut and how robust are the machines? I am a woodcarver and need to cut 6/4 stock. What are the motor sizes? thanks
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hegner vs excaliber scroll
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I've got the EX-21. I've put some of my thoughts on it on my website, www.scrollsawblog.com. In short, I wouldn't want to cut 6/4 wood on it. It would probably cut it (I'm assuming you're cutting basswood & not purpleheart!), but it would be slow going. I'd probably use a bandsaw instead.
The motor on the EX-21 is a 1.3A; don't know about the bigger EX-30.
(I put some thoughts on it earlier this year on a link in the upper left of the blog under "Pages". I also had someone ask me some questions; I put the answers in a post on 21 Dec 06.)Last edited by kofte; 12-27-2006, 08:46 PM.
David
David Griffin
Tuliptree Crafts
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I've cut a lot of 3D ornaments with my EX-30 out of 6/4 stock (douglas fir, mahogany, cedar). I've also used it to cut 8/4 Padauk and Mahogany. It's slow going but the cuts were very true. I haven't used a Hegner so I can't comment on it vs. the Excalibur. I don't think you'd be disappointed with either machine.Kevin
Scrollsaw Patterns Online
Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671
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When I was looking for a saw to replace my Delta SS350 I had the chance to use a Hegner and a RBI Hawk. The hawk had a lot more room under the top arm than the Hegner. I was trying to cut 1.5 inch wood (3D character) and I like to put my finger on top of the wood behind the blade (my personal technique that I am comfortable with) and the top arm of the Hegner was whacking my fat finger. The RBI had a LOT more room. I just cut 2" thick material with about a #12 blade (7tpi) and it cut fairly easily. With wood this thick you need to take your time and back up frequently to allow the saw dust to clear. The RBI G4 allows you to adjust the stroke motion to make it more agressive but I didn't change it.Rolf
RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association
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You're asking too much! A scroll saw is good to go about 1" but the value of it, is in the ability to make intricate cuts. For 1" and above,treat yourself to a band saw, it will make the job a lot easier. Whenever you force a tool to do more than the design,you're asking for problems.
I have had a Hegner for several years;kinda wanted to see what an Excaliber would do,but there isn't a real need. JMHO pw
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You can see the review of the Hegner model I own here:
http://www.finescrollsaw.com/hegnerreview.htm
It is an excellent machine.
Pedro.
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Originally posted by dtoggsYou're asking too much! A scroll saw is good to go about 1" but the value of it, is in the ability to make intricate cuts. For 1" and above,treat yourself to a band saw, it will make the job a lot easier. Whenever you force a tool to do more than the design,you're asking for problems.
Compound cut ornaments 006.jpg
or these compound cut chess pieces.
Classic 2 Chess Set_ Poplar.jpgLIFE'S SHORT, USE IT WELL
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cutting 1 1/2" thick pcs on scroll saw
Marsha,I gladly defer to your expertise and will slink back into my cave. My Hegner is much too slow for 1" + cutting . I've tried cutting 2" thick on an old Atlas 24" jig saw,but the result was a convex cut . pw
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Originally posted by dtoggsMarsha,I gladly defer to your expertise and will slink back into my cave. My Hegner is much too slow for 1" + cutting . I've tried cutting 2" thick on an old Atlas 24" jig saw,but the result was a convex cut . pw
Both are based on patterns from Lora Irish's book North American Wildlife.Kevin
Scrollsaw Patterns Online
Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671
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I have a Bandsaw with a six inch riser that I use primarily for re-sawing. I have never seen a bandsaw give me a finish like what I get from my Scroll saw.
The "My first Toy" Thread has pictures of the car that I did on the scroll saw. The wood was 2 inches thick. The window area was cut out, that is something that would be very hard to do on a band saw.( inside cuts)
My RBI G4 has a constant torque motor and does not labor with thick wood.Last edited by Rolf; 01-02-2007, 11:38 AM.Rolf
RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association
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Thanks for all the info.
Thanks for all the information. In another post I also included the Eclipse. I talked to Ernie Mellon, the inventor and I tried one that someone had near where I lived. The machine is vibration-less and runs like a fine sewing machine. It is built rugged. I also talked to Tony Burns of New York who works both his Eclipse machines hard. On the saw I cut 2" basswood and went through 6/4 white oak without a problem. For me, I have many bandsaws but this purchase was for interior cuts and delicate pieces where I need control by getting close to the blade. Years ago, in the sculpture studio I worked in, the Italians had a spring loaded top scroll saw. For the money, the eclipse seems to equals what I feel I would get from other saws plus I am supporting Henry Ford ingenuity. If you are inclined..... check his saw out I was impressed. thanksLast edited by calvo; 01-02-2007, 10:20 PM.
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EX-21 review update--broken linkage
I know this is a 2-year old thread, but I still get quite a few folks coming to my EX-21 review from this thread. I just added a pretty major update to the review; basically, my saw just broke the rear rocker arm. (Not sure how to put a picture of it up here, but I did on my review page). I'm not completely soured on the EX-21, as I did order a new one. The company I purchased it from says they'll also throw in a replacement part for the old saw, as the design hasn't changed from Sommerville to General.
My saw gets quite a bit of usage, and it's one of the first to be made. When I talked with that person, he's heard of 3 other saws with the same problem, all of them seeing heavy use. He hasn't heard of any of the Generals doing the same. Of course, General is quite a bit newer and those saws may have not seen the same usage. On the other hand, the may have upgraded the part as well.
Meanwhile, I'm down until the new saw comes in. I hope to fix the old one and use it as a back-up.
David
David Griffin
Tuliptree Crafts
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Kofte, I'm also on my second EX-21. The first one was purchased last December and died in late February. Not sure what broke in it, but the rear rocker arm seems a likely candidate. While sawing I heard a loud POP and the saw immediately started vibrating enough to walk the saw & stand across the floor. It sounded like a V-8 engine that had thrown one or more rods.
Luckily, General International was great about it and sent me a brand new saw. Now, just 3 months later I occasionally hear an audible pop when first starting up the saw. The sound comes from the back of the upper arm near the tension adjustment knob.
So I'm nervous, to say the least.
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The story is still unfolding, but it looks like I'll get a warranty repair. The person I'm working with thinks it's a part defect, not due to the amount of usage. I'll keep the minute-to-minute updates on my blog site and post a wrap-up here...don't want to hog the forum too much.
I didn't get a pop with mine; the saw just folded up a blade for no reason. Put in a new blade, and couldn't put any tension on it. Noticed the the lower arm was very,very loose. Opened up the access plate (thinking the linkage may have just come unbolted), and there was the break in the vertical member.
Other than this, it's been a good saw. Of course, this is a sorta big problem.
David
David Griffin
Tuliptree Crafts
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