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Dewalt 788 type 1 v type 2

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  • Dewalt 788 type 1 v type 2

    What is the diffeence?

  • #2
    From what I understand, type 1 was made in the U.S. or Canada and the type 2 was made in China. People who have a type 1 have nothing but good things to say about them but the type 2 saws are kind of sporadic. Some are good and some are bad. Many people who have bought the type 2 have had to take them to a service center right after they bought them due to the blade holders being too far apart and not holding the blades. I've also heard the tables aren't real square on many of them. If you have an option, buy the type 1. I just got a used one off Ebay and tried it out and so far so good. Of course, this is a type 1. I haven't done a complete project with it yet since it just came in yesterday.
    Mike

    Making sawdust with a Dremel 1680.
    www.picturetrail.com/naturephotos

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    • #3
      So how do you know if you have a type 1 or a type 2??
      Theresa
      Theresa

      http://WoodNGoods.weebly.com

      http://woodngoods.blogspot.com

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Forester21
        So how do you know if you have a type 1 or a type 2??
        Theresa
        It says which it is on the motor - and, as far as I can remember, on the box.

        I recently bought a type 2 for about $400 C$ - before I knew there had been problems with it - and seem to have been lucky in that the table is flat and I've had no problems at all with the blade holder, even using fairly small FD puzzle blades.

        The only couple of things I've noticed are:

        a) the hole in the table that the blade goes through is a little off centre - not enough to interfere with tilting the table but it's close ..

        b) and I've been meaning to ask if this is normal - I always have the blade tension as high as it will go. Once again, no problems, no blade breakages, and it seems that the tension is fine for cutting puzzles square - apart from my own human error at times!

        Ian
        Ian

        Scrolling with a Dewalt 788

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        • #5
          I bought mine used. It's a 1, but I also have my blade tention as high as it will go. So far I've only cut soft wood and just a few things.

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          • #6
            With narrow kerf 2/0 blades for my regular puzzles on 1/4" plywood, I set the tension just below the maximum, on 4.5.

            With 8/0 jewelers blades which I use to cut stamp puzzles, also on 1/4" wood, I set the tension to only 3.0 or 3.5 max. Anything more will break these thin blades.

            My DeWalt has probably cut more than 150,000 puzzle pieces over its ten or so years. It's getting a wee bit wobbly and I may soon be on the market for a new one. I found one on line for $409, but if I order it, I'll be keeping my fingers crossed as I assume it will be a type 2,

            Carter

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            • #7
              I have read that not only was the DW788 made in Canada, but it was designed and built by Sommerville Mfg. (the makers of the Excalibur), which explains why it is such a fine saw if you can get by the quality issues. These problems don't seem to be insurmountable if you can part with your saw for a little rework. In fact, I wonder if the remanufactured ones from Tool King might not be the best way to buy one as they have "been to the shop" already.

              Ian and Carter, I had wondered about Carter's saying he put the tension way up, so I tried higher than recommended tension (not even maximum) on my Hawk a couple of times and the blades went pop!

              Got to wonder about using the 788 for general scrolling, which requires even more tension, and if there is some adjustment owners can make to shift the tension range higher. If not a mechanical alteration to the saw, maybe clipping the blade ends?

              Pete

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              • #8
                When I tension the blade on either of my dewalts (both Type 1's) rarely do I go all the way. I dont really look at it often, I tension by feel. I have the easylift on both saws, and the spring tension is a little different on each, so on one of the saws I need to put a little downward pressure on the upper arm as I tighten the thumbscrew. That means that each time I go to tensioning, it reads differently because I'm not clamping on the exact spot as the previous cut was. when my wife asked me how much tension she should use (after I scolded her for really torqueing on the tension lever), I told her use just enough, then one more click. Not much help , sorry. Dale
                Dale w/ yella saws

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                • #9
                  Mike,
                  Congradulations on the prchase of your new saw. I wish you hours of enjoyment and many great projects to be made.
                  Happy Scrolling,
                  Bill
                  Delta P-20

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