waxing the saw table

[tagordy]

[NC Scroller]

I have used the same wax many times with no issues. I do a couple things differently on my cast iron table. First I rub it down with a couple different grades of steel wool. This removes any trace rust or pitch. If there is a lot of pitch I will dip the first steel wool in some mineral spirits. I then apply the wax with 0000 steel wool. Finally I apply a light coat of wax and buff off after a minute or so. I think your issue is you are leaving the wax on too long. Dried on wax can create a sticky gummy mess.

[sawman101]

In the past I used Johnson's Paste Wax, but I would begin to see rust on the portions of the surface where the boards had rubbed the wax away. I have been using Top Saver for many years now, with great satisfaction. No residue on the wood, eliminates friction, and lasts for a very long time. I apply it with the 3 M scrubby, then buff it after it dries, just like the wax. I find it no more costly than wax. Anyway Scott, you can't take it with you, so you might as well go 1st class.

[Bill Wilson]

I tend to agree with Scott. It sounds like too much time elapsed between initial application and the buffing process. Once the wax dries too much, it can be a bear to get the excess off. To remove the wax and start over, you can use some mineral spirits on a rag or with a Scotch Brite pad.

When I wax, I only leave the wax on for a few minutes before buffing it out. It's usually still somewhat soft. I take a rag and go over it briskly, removing the majority of the excess wax, then take a clean rag and rub it down more vigorously, turning the rag over frequently, so that I'm always buffing with a clean spot. I'm literally removing most of the wax, but what gets left behind is hard & smooth.

[wood-n-things]

I use the same method as Bill Wilson......

[tvman44]

I too do it like Bill, very little time between applying and buffing. I don't wait for or expect a haze. I also do the same on all my cast iron tops, TS, Jointer, ect.

[Mick Walker]

Like most of you, I use Johnson's past wax. I don't wait at all after applying the wax I rub or buff it. You can apply 100 coats of wax to your table, but there will still only be one coat on it. My tools are in a damp basement and have never had a problem with rust. I apply the wax with a paper towel folded into a pad, buff it out with an old cotton hand towel.

[Stoney]

I can remember from years ago trying to buff paste wax from a car I had left it

set to long on, what a job!!! That was long before I could afford and electric

buffer. Now I leave in on my saw tables just long enough to form a haze and

start buffing.

[tagordy]

wow!!! ask and ye shall receive…..thanx for all this great info, i will put it to good use…the reason i was leaving the wax on so long was due to the directions….yeah, yeah, i know, i know…some people don’t read the directions

[stephenD]

When I first read the subject title I was going to post that I didn't have hair on my table so I didn't need to wax it. But I see that isn't what you are talking about at all, so I wont mention that.

[GRAYBEARDSTL]

I usually make sure my table is a relatively WARM temperature before applying the wax. If the table is too cool the wax tends to 'coagulate' and not spread smoothly. when it is dry i take a folded paper shop towel, the blue ones. and put that under my oscillating sander and use that to polish the surface.

[Carter-Johnson]

In 20 years, I've lightly waxed the cutting surface maybe only five times, only when something gets on it. Just a quick application and wipe of a paste wax.

I'm cutting such tight lines with my puzzles that I don't want the surface to be too slippery or I'll lose control.

Good luck with your problem.

Carter

[Jim McDonald]

There's directions?

[tagordy]

i was very upset today when our realtor called and told me the guy had walked away from closing on our other property…FOR THE 2ND TIME!!!…so i took out some of my anger on my saw table….mineral spirit wipe down, steel wool scrub down, scotch brite pad scrub down, sanding by hand and palm sander (p240 grit), scotch brite pad scrub down, steel wool scrub down, shop towel wipe down, another mineral spirits wipe down….some of these steps repeated a few times, trying to get anger out of my system, oh, i was also taking the wax off my table…..saw table is somewhat smoother now, than when i first got it, i think…lol…ok, last step…a thin coat of paste wax, only on for a minute or 2, then i wiped off the lightly moist wax, and used a few dif types of towels i use in my shop….saw table-slick as owl s***, now…pardon my french……there’s my second story for the week….hope ya’ll enjoy it….lol…..thanx to those that told me how i should fix my table prob….oh, and my anger??? doubt i’ll be alright for a few days….i’m chewing nails still, and with only 7 teefies

[Charlie001]

I use paraffin to wax and protect my saw tables. Easy to find in the cooking section of grocery store. Just rub a bar over the table and leave on.

I used to live in Mobile, AL and stored my tools on a carport. When the steel is cold, and the humidity is high, the saw tables got wet with condensation. I found a thick coat of paraffin was the best protection against rust I could find.

Charlie