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Grabbed a Dewalt DW788 for $180 in a Pawn shop

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  • Grabbed a Dewalt DW788 for $180 in a Pawn shop

    Lucked out today snagged a nice DW-788 in a local pawn shop they had it listed for $250 I offered $150 cash and we settled on $180

    Its marked Type 1 Canada 97-25-80 What does that mean ? Does that mean its made in 97 ?

    Anyways the machine itself is in great shape working perfectly
    the only defects it has are on the table the blade opening is chopped up a little and it has this strange pitting like stain ?

    When i looked at it in the pawn shop I thought its just surface rust or even just a spill that would be easily cleaned up but I was wrong what ever spilled on it ate into the iron. I tried sanding it I hit it with a palm sander first that didn't help at all then I tried hitting a small area with angle grinder and a wire buffer pad on it that kind of cleaned out some of the corrosion leaving a small gouge maybe as deep as a piece of paper or so as you can see in the bottom picture front part
    I thought that might be making it worse so I stopped

    The pitting is like some kind of chemical acid ate into it
    It really don't affect the operation of the unit but I'd love to restore it any ideas what i can do ?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Markee; 12-03-2011, 06:17 AM.

  • #2
    Pics sure are not working.
    Type 1 is the more desirable model, production was later shifted to Asia, and they have suffered quality control problems since then.
    Not sure how extensive the damage is since pics aren't showing, but if the paint was eaten by chemicals, it all depends on how far you want to go to restore its appearance.
    You could strip it down, sand blast it, then get a couple cans of dewalt yellow and repaint it.
    Or, you could just sand it down best you can to reduce pits, mask off any areas you don't want painted, rub it down with acetone to remove any contaminants, and paint it.
    They actually do make a "Dewalt Yellow" [5140030-13 ], pretty expensive stuff, look to pay up to $40 for a 12 oz can. A generic safety yellow is probably close enough, and a lot cheaper.

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    • #3
      Thanks for your reply I fixed the pics as you can see the damage is on the table part of the saw the yellow body is in like perfect shape

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      • #4
        Unless appearance is a high priority, if the table is smooth I'd wax it get started having fun cutting. I use Johnsons paste wax on all my cast table tops. Pat
        Woodworking is Therapy.... some of us need more therapy than others.

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        • #5
          If the table top is damaged enough to hinder the free movement of the wood, you can cover it with something. I have used some 1/8" Masonite on occasion and that works well. Some folks have put plastic over the top to protect the table. That could help.
          Pacifism is great, as long as everyone is participating.



          StephenD


          The Southern Arizona Woodturners Association
          Desert Woodcrafters
          Grandpa for the 7 most amazing children.

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          • #6
            That is a great price for a Type 1. I would just wax the top using 0000 steel wool apply the wax. Then lightly slide a piece of wood over the table and see if the pitting impact movement. If no you are done. If it does I would repeat the steel wool process using 0 steel wool then 00 steel wool then 000 and finally 0000. Make sure to do the entire table and no just "the spot."
            Scott
            Creator of fine designer sawdust.

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            • #7
              Good score!

              I am sure a machine shop would mill the table top for you to get rids of the "stain".
              ‎"Orphans are easier to ignore before you know their names. They're easier to ignore before you see their faces. It's easier to pretend they're not real before you hold them in your arms. But once you do, everything changes."

              D. Platt

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              • #8
                It looks like a chemical has etched the cast iron ,easiest fastest fix ,1/8 " lexan cut to
                fit ,redo blade hole to your specs ,double side carpet tape intire top matching joints
                tite .add new top .now you have a extreamly tough new top almond color "tape "
                shows thru ,removal easy with heat gun. plus you can see solid contact thru lexan.
                Be sure to throughly clean table ,and tape must be put on flat and tight ,you will be able to see seal thru lexan ,warm any areas where seal looks questionable and press down you
                be able to see good seal ,area around blade hole needs to be well sealed to keep saw dust
                out,would not recomend plexiglas or acrylic not the same and can crack splinter and chip.
                Other real fix ,machine shop with a blanchard grinder ,no idea of cost!
                Formica will work ,but you can not see sealing ,tape works best because of thermo expansion of cast iron and any other material defer greatly tape will allow without loosing seal.
                My very best!
                Carl
                "Home Of The Dust Free Scroll Saw"
                Remember (IT is WHAT it IS)( Unless YOU change IT!)

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                • #9
                  Whow, and I thought I got a good buy on mine. I found a fellow on Craigs List that bought one 4 years ago and didn't use it like he thought he would, he listed it for $350.00 then reduced it to $300.00. I called him and offered him $250.00 ane he took it. It has the factory stand and like I said I thought I got a good deal.
                  Like the rest if it's smooth I would 't wory about the stain.

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                  • #10
                    All of you got a better deal than me , I gave almost $555.00 for my saw on-line over four years ago - mine is a type 2 and trouble free also - just wish I'd priced around better . Grizzly's has the best deal going right now if you were wanting a new one DW-788 scrollsaw . Markee : I hope this saw is great for you too , appearance is'nt what cuts the wood - it's the saw . Good Luck .....................MB
                    Usually busier than a cat in a sandbox !!!!!!!!!!! MB { Dewalt 788 only }

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                    • #11
                      It looks like some slob left a seepy can of something sitting on the table. It shouldnt effect the saws useability though luckily. Id slop on a coat of ohnsons paste wax on the table, and get to cutting! You struck a great deal there. And yes, that saw would have been manufactured in 1997, your assumption is correct. Congrats on a great deal!
                      Dale w/ yella saws

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for all the reply's been busy most of the day playing around with saw working on a project Seems the small gouged stain doesn't affect movement at all in fact the saw is working just fine .
                        I still definitely would love to get the table fixed if i can do it in a cost affective way
                        From what I'm reading the the table replacement part cost close to $200 unless someone knows where to buy it cheaper looks like resurfacing the table is the way to go
                        I don't know what Blanchard grinding cost but from what I'm reading online maybe cost me about $50 to resurface the table I'd go for that.

                        I'm not really sure what i can do to fix the cut up saw hole
                        I was thinking maybe cut a hole out the table and put in one of those removable blade discs in or cover with clear Lexan and cut the hole out the middle of the Lexan top only and fit the removable blade discs in the hole on top
                        Any other suggestions ?
                        Last edited by Markee; 12-04-2011, 01:55 PM.

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                        • #13
                          thats ahelluva score but...




                          + + I Love The Smell Of Sawdust In The Morning + +

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                          • #14
                            I wouldnt worry about the scuffed up blade hole. Sure it might bug you to look at that,but it still doesnt affect the saws usefulness. I think cutting the hole out bigger and making a plastic insert for it would be a huge mistake, then you are always going to have to be replacing that insert and trying to keep that level with your saws tabletop.I too like to have my tools look brand new, but I also dont like to fiddle with something that isnt broken. If you really must do something to satisfy you, why not just cut your piece of lexan big enough to cover the whole table and just drill a small hole in that where the blade goes through and leave it at that?
                            Dale w/ yella saws

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                            • #15
                              If you havent done it yet. Just sand the table with 220 and waxs it . As far as the center hole you are good to go as is. If you are doing small cuttings then make a zero hole cover. Good fine on the saw. Lance

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