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  • Researching types of scroll saws

    So I've been researching the types of scroll saws lately for if and when I ever get to upgrade from the extremely frustrating Skill scroll saw that I have. I have been looking at the differences between the parallel link and the double parallel link (like Excalibur and DeWalt). One of the things that I have found out about the double parallel link types is that due to the short arms there is more forward and back motion of the blade than there is with the parallel link types. But the shorter arms is the biggest reason they have less vibration than the parallel link types. Some say this can cause over cutting with delicate turns and what not. Has anyone who uses these noticed this and had any problems with it, or is it something you just have to adjust to?
    Don't bother with role models and hero's. Just be yourself. Unless yourself is just too much trouble for you to handle.

  • #2
    I havent had any trouble because of this. I frequently stack cut thin, delicate pieces and it really hasnt hindered me at all. All of my Dewalt saws are Type 1 saws (canada made).It does sound like the overseas ones have much more problems with this front back motion though.
    Dale w/ yella saws

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    • #3
      I'm running aDewalt 788, and it does have the back & forth motion. It's the nature of that type of linkage.

      I have cut some pretty tight corners with it, but it is something to get used to. I found that keeping the blade speeds at 60% - 80% and slowing the feed down a bit reduces the effect of the motion. The slower the speed, the more noticable it is.

      After some practice I hardly notice it any more.
      The good woodworker does not craft the wood for honor. He uses his craft to honor the wood.

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      • #4
        I think, from a technical standpoint, a properly operating saw should cut square, front to back/top & bottom, regardless of how much motion there may be. The more motion there is, the more aggressive the saw will cut, but as the blade swings entirely through it's cutting arc, the end result should be a cut that is exactly as deep on the top of the wood as it is on the bottom. Where the DeWalts have exhibited problems is when the arc of the blade doesn't leave a perfectly vertical cut and you end up overcutting either on the top or the bottom.

        My DeWalt is a type II and fortunately it cuts vertical. I've not had the problems that so many others have had, but I have used a DeWalt that doesn't cut vertically and it makes getting clean corner cuts very difficult, especially in thicker material or stacks. I don't think it's a design problem, as much as it is a manufacturing problem.
        Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

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        • #5
          I have a Sears Model# 21609 and getting good results with it.

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          • #6
            saw

            I have EX-21
            and I love it I came from a old Delta saw and there was no problem adjusting to it. Steve Good did a great review of the EX and that I do agree with him, if you do a lot of stack cutting you might not want a EX it runs a little slower than it's competitors but I don't stack cut either. so thats not an issue for me. I do really like it that my table and work piece lays flat when I do a bevel cut. just my 2 cents.

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            • #7
              I have an ex-21 and when I first got it I had to do some fine tuning to get it just right. You can adjust the fore and aft movement of the blade by loosening the bolts that hold the motor and then turning it, in my case a half inch was all it needed. Now I have what is probably the finest scroll saw available today.

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              • #8
                I have an EX-30 and could not not be more happy. I have tried all of the other saws that Sears and the rest of the big box stores offer and the Excalibur is the best, in my humble opinion.

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                • #9
                  Cool. Thanks all your input. I've definitely been looking at the Excalibur as the next one I would like to have with the tilting head and nice big table, and most importantly the lower price tag out of the higher end models.
                  Looks like I'm going to be getting one of the new Porter Cable saws (my parents wouldn't go for the Ex, and my wife won't let me drop that kind of cheddar yet) for Christmas though since I've pretty well worn out the Skill in the year I've had it. I just had to fix it again this weekend so I can fill a couple orders and try to get gifts finished up for Christmas. If it wasn't for that I would have just said to heck with it and let it die. The threads in the upper blade chuck stripped out. I had to drill and tap it to the next size up. Also had to grind off the side that the screw goes into. It had worn enough so it wasn't square anymore and was bowing the screw when it was tightened down making it difficult to hold anything under a #3.
                  I've seen some good reviews on the Porter Cable, and some bad ones too, but more good than bad. I guess I'll find out in a couple more weeks. Fretnot, I'll have to remember that adjustment if/when I finally am able to get one. Is that something that's in the manual or something you figured out?
                  Don't bother with role models and hero's. Just be yourself. Unless yourself is just too much trouble for you to handle.

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                  • #10
                    I have an older Delta C-arm scroll saw, and I'm very happy with it. It has a big round table, variable speed, and very little vibration.

                    I got it a couple years ago on Craig's list. I got the saw, a nice drill press, and a shop-vac as a package deal for $250. I sold the drill-press to a friend for $100, and gave away the shop-vac. That puts my cost for this very nice scroll saw at $150.

                    You might want to keep an eye out for a good deal on a used saw.

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