Pattern application & Removal observations

[ozarkhillbilly]

I've been experimenting with different methods of pattern applications and removal, and keep in mind these aren't very controlled, nor am I a "professional" tester....

Most of you know I like doing portraits and especially Jeff Zaffino type patterns and there are always alot of fragil and delicate pieces, and when it is time to remove the pattern, well, lets just say at times it hasn't been pretty! I'm just glad I stack cut!

One of the best ways to apply the pattern to these type portraits I have found is simpley spray the back of the pattern with adhesive and attach it to the wood. And then use mineral spirits to remove the pattern once cut. But I still have to gentley and carefully rub the piece with a paper towel to remove the residue, I have used 3M. Elmers and DuroBond sprays and while all hold the pattern well to the wood while cutting, In my opinion, I have found that the DuroBond leaves the least residue on the finished wood for me to remove. I even can just remove the pattern by just pulling it up like painters tape and not even use mineral spirits.

And inregards to painters tape, I have used 3M, and Duct tape brands, both purple and blue coloring. While I didn't notice much if any difference between the colored tape. I did notice a difference between the two brands. With the Duct Tape brand removing the easiest. Even when left on for several days.

I do not work for any of these companies nor recieved any compensation for my views. They are just that my views.

I'm sure there are others out there, just curious if any of our other members have played around like this, and what their opinions and findings are?

[SharonW0111]

Billy == I couldn't agree with your techenque more/ That is the same way I remove my patterns. I have found that applying my paimt thinner if I just apply it with a artist brush then I can lift of all the pattern very easy .=after I use the paper towel dampemed in sprits I blow off the whole thintg with the air hose.
Sharon

[Jediscroller]

Like you, I've tried all different ways of attaching patterns. As I like designing and cutting "delightfully wicked" (ya just knew I was gonna use that one sooner or later Bill) patterns so I can identify with the fragility. I myself prefer the painter's tape (the cheapest I can find as it doesn't stick all that well) then pattern method. I've also done the mineral spirits thingy, but due to the business aspects of it, I don't always have that extra day to wait for the wood to dry fully. This method works very well also, I think it's a matter of personal preference.

[Sawduster]

Bill, I always use painters tape. Cheap stuff just like Kevin. 3" wide and I just cover the whole board. I overlap each peice just a tiny so when I pull it off it all comes off together ....unless I have a " senior moment " and start on the wrong end On fragile fretwork I make sure to put a little pressure behind with my finger as I pull and I am mindful of how I am pulling on certain sections. Also before I apply the pattern I flip it on it's face and use a sharp knife to trim the tape. I have found that wrapping it over sometimes makes the wood drag on my deck
That's one view from the rookie contingent

[ozarkhillbilly]

I'm all for cheap, the cheaper the better! In my area anyways, the DuraBond spray and Duct Tape brand are the cheapest materials and give me the best results! Like you said Kevin, the cheaper tape comes off the easiest.

I do use both methods, but for the "delightfully wicked" and most fragil patterns, I will go with the pattern to wood method and skip the tape.

For my painters tape tests, I taped half a project with one brand and the other half with the other. Then just paid attention to the ease of removing them when finished. There really was quite a difference in how they stayed put to the wood.

[Bill Wilson]

I've also done the mineral spirits thingy, but due to the business aspects of it, I don't always have that extra day to wait for the wood to dry fully.

Kevin, not sure I follow. Does it really take that long for the MS to dry? What problems does it cause if it isn't comepetely evaporated? (providing one is using an oil based finish) I've removed patterns with MS and I often wiipe wood down with MS to remove dust before finishing. I've never noticed it taking that long. Then again, I usually have a fan running in the shop to help evacuate the fumes.

[Marsha]

I just spray the pattern with Elmer's spray adhesive (I use Elmer's cause it's the only one I can find) and slap it right on the wood. When I'm done cutting, I lift the pattern with the help of an old hair blower. The pattern usually comes right off along with the glue residue. When I discovered mineral spirits, I started wiping the pieces with it and it cleans them up very well. I'm allergic to most oil based products, but I find if I use the mineral spirits outside it's not too bad. The pieces normally dry in just a couple of minutes.
Just my .02 worth
Marsha

[B Smith]

I also use elmers as it is the cheapest around here. When doing a Zaffino type cutting I glue my pattern to a piece of luaon plywood , then chuck it in the designer firewood box and don`t have any residue to deal with. I was able to pick up the luaon from a furniture mfg place when we lived in the city when they threw it iin the trash.

[Forester21]

I like to use the Elmers glue sticks. They even make some so the glue looks purple when wet, and clear when dry, so on the back of the pattern you can see where you have applied the glue. To remove the pattern after cutting, if it doesn't lift right up, just put a damp cloth on it for a few seconds - the water loosens the glue.
Now, I haven't cut any of the Zaffino type patterns so I don't know how it would work for those. I do sand the face and back of all my projects, so any residue is sanded off.
Theresa E

[Grizz]

I like using Durabond Spray over other's that I've tried. I've also found that a heat gun works great in getting the pattern off no matter how delicate. The only problem is glue residue... but then I just use some kind of mineral spirits and 'dap' down then wipe.

[Jediscroller]

Kevin, not sure I follow. Does it really take that long for the MS to dry? What problems does it cause if it isn't comepetely evaporated? (providing one is using an oil based finish) I've removed patterns with MS and I often wiipe wood down with MS to remove dust before finishing. I've never noticed it taking that long. Then again, I usually have a fan running in the shop to help evacuate the fumes.

It's just a rule of thumb I've always used. Actually, if you're using the BLO/Mineral Spirits mix it wouldn't matter. My portrait type stuff I finish with Deft spray, I had a problem once with adhesion using the mineral spirit so I always wait a full day for it, it might be longer than necessary.

[GrayBeard Phil]

Bill:

Your original post on this thread-

Well done on the research. Your report started a good dialog with lots of good info. I, for one, have not seen or tried Elmer's spray adhesive, and Marsha give a good report on it (thanks Marsha and B Smith.)

My personal problem is once I find something that is do-able, or even semi works, I stop trying to find something new and improved. A thread like this gets me thinking about trying something different.

Thanks

Phil

[BobD (Archive)]

I've used Goo Gone on my last few projects with good results; but then again, I didn't apply any finish on them...anyone have experience with that?

Bob

[minowevie]

Well I guess I need to try some of these sugjestions. but up to now this is what works for me. I spray the heck on the back of my patten with just cheap 3m_77, spray adhesive.(I don't use any tape) I'm , too cheep. then cut away. don't wont that patten to come up while cutting. then i use MY Favorite. Mineral spirits. spray it on from a little bottle.. or mostly i use a makup spoung.(and dab it on) let it stand for a few minuts, put more on if need be. and the patten lefts off in one piece. if any glue is leaft on the wood , and there always is. dab somemore MS on and wipe with a soft rag like a tea shirt. carrfully. and i do saturate the wood. so then i dab up the excess with what ever cloth or ??. (((then use my hair dryer to dry off my wood front and back)))) , only takes a couple minutes.(not days) works for me. don't raise the grain or change the color. then sand or burn what ever. I have not created a fire yet.and I say YET. but . do what you think is right for you. I am learning too. Evie

[lucky788scroller]

Evie, I would strongly urge you to reconsider the "burning" after youve douced your wood with MS, and dried it. it may be dry on the surface, but stored within the wood pores is a fuel that burns faster then you can run. Dale