My last 2 for awhile.

[Minnesota scroller]

Guess what guys. I cut 2 horses at once. Is that called stack cutting?

We'll see what the public thinks of them this evening.

Chow.

Whoops. Forgot to manage my attachments.

[minowevie]

Hay , way to go Mike. yes that would be stack cutting, can't wait to see.
Your friend Evie.

[Marcel in Longueuil]

Mike,

Nice!

What size are they?

Regards,
Marcel

[Minnesota scroller]

The horse head is about 8 X 8 and Jesus is about 8 X 10.

[ozarkhillbilly]

Looks good Mike! So what do you think of stack cutting now? I'll bet you had a smile on your face when you seen not one but two completed pieces in the same amount of time cutting the one! Did you have any problems?
Best of luck tonight.........

[minowevie]

Ok now your playing with my head again where did those great pictures come from. HO HO/ I just love that horse. it looks so real. very nice cutting. and i love Jesus too. and I will remmeber these. you do know I have alltimers right. your friend evie

[Minnesota scroller]

Thanks y'all. No problems with the stack cutting except that the blade sure cuts slower. They also dull a heck of a lot faster. But then, I was cutting
1/2" instead of my usual 1/4". Twice the wood, twice the dulling. One nice aspect is that I didn't get hardly any fuzzies on the back of the top one.

[minowevie]

hay Mike , what size blade did you use.?? just wondering. and what wood too. your friend Evie

[Minnesota scroller]

All my portraits are 1/4" BB. I started the horse with #3 Pegas skip and switched to a #2 Olson reverse. I started Jesus with a #7 Olson reverse but switched to the #3 Pegas skip, now that I figured out how to saw with the Pegas. I just needed to increase the tension a little. That is 1 sharp blade.

[lucky788scroller]

For 1/4 thick cutting I would use a much smaller blade. You could get by with a smaller blade, it will cut easier, and the blade will cut cooler. You should be able to cut them projects out (stack cut 2 high) using one blade for the whole thing. Looks great though. Dale

[minowevie]

All my portraits are 1/4" BB. I started the horse with #3 Pegas skip and switched to a #2 Olson reverse. I started Jesus with a #7 Olson reverse but switched to the #3 Pegas skip, now that I figured out how to saw with the Pegas. I just needed to increase the tension a little. That is 1 sharp blade.

Mike thanks for the impho. I have not tryed the pegas skip. how many teeth per inch are they. I use alot of the mach prestion ground tooth from olsen, they are agressive. but they are only like 13 teeth per inch. do they turn good. I find i have problems sometimes with some of the less teeth per inch. In some of the brands.maybe the tention is the answer? I like the less teeth per inch. they seem to cut through still ,and last longer.. but I have a problem turning. I turn, and the blade keeps going to the right. what am i doing rough. I cut with the burr to the line. i would like to here your methed. I am getting redy to cut some really hard stuff. stacked 1/4 inch red oak. so thats 1/2 inch. and sure dont wont my blade to wander off to the right. does this make sence to you. thanks your friend evie

[pete00]

both are very nice...but the horsey is my fav.

[Minnesota scroller]

Dale, I normally use #2 Olson reverse and thought I would try some #3 Pegas skip tooth. The only reason I tried the large #7 is because before I even got my scroll saw I bought a pack of blades on Ebay. The seller talked me into size 2, 5, 7 and 9. He also recommended size 11. Unfortunately this was before I found this awesome site. I thought the Jesus portrait, with not much for tight curves, would be a good way to use up one of my large blades. Otherwise, I have no idea what to do with the size 7's and 9's.

Evie, the Pegas #3 has 20 tpi. As far as my method goes, there is no method to my madness except to slow the blade and myself down for the tight cuts.

When I first got the Pegas blades I couldn't stay on the line on the tight curves worth a diddly. I emailed Ben, where I got the blades from, and he suggested tightening the tension. It seems to help a lot. For portrait work I don't see a real good reason for reverse tooth blades. If the backside is a little roughed up, big deal. A backer board will hide it anyway. The pattern stays in place much better with the skip tooth and the board doesn't jump as much. I think I will learn to like these.

[Charlie_1]

Great work there

Charlie,