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  • Segmentation

    I am just reading about using food coloring for staining wood in Segmentation and other scroll saw projects. I have also been told that Fabric Dye works well..........which is better?

  • #2
    Although I have not tried it personally, I've heard that food colouring will fade over a short period of time.


    • #3
      My wife uses Kool-Aid for dyeing wool. Not sure how it would work on wood though. Might have to try an experiment.

      "All it Takes For the Forces of EVIL to Rule Is For Enough GOOD People To DO NOTHING!"

      Saws: Excaliber 30; Dewalt 788 'Twins', Makita SJ401 (Retired), Grizzly G1012 18" Bandsaw


      • #4
        I've never used food coloring to dye wood, but I have used Rits fabric dye. It worked fairly well, but required quite a bit of sanding. You disolve the dye in water and soak the piece in the dye, the longer it soaks the deeper the color will get, this really raises the grain on a piece of wood and it needs to be sanded back down. The one think I really liked about the dye as opposed to paint was the grain of the wood showed through the dye. It did take a fair bit of drying time as well. I have also used acrylic paint to stain a piece. You thin the paint down with water and wipe it on just as you would stain, again this requires a bit of sanding, because the water will always lift the grain.
        Again just my 2 cents worth


        • #5
          Originally posted by Marsha
          ...Again just my 2 cents worth
          Your 2 cents is worth big bucks in teh scrollsaw world. Thanks for all the tips!
          "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
          Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21


          • #6
            Fabric Dye

            A while back I was going to experiment with mixing fabric dye with denatured alcohol to stain a project. Thought it might not lift the grain as bad as when mixed with water. Never got around to doing it because I started playing around with artists oils and liked the initial results. I learned not to use odorless mineral spirits as a thinning medium though. The paint on the "Sybil" I did is just as wet as it was when I finished coloring it. I moved it out in the sun on my back deck in hopes it will dry!!! I have no idea when, or if, I'll be able to glue it up. I'll use turpentine to thin the oils on the next one. There's a site sponsored by RIT dyes that addresses using their fabric dyes to color wood but I no longer remember the link. It was discussed here on the board a while back and I believe the link was posted in the thread. Maybe someone with a better memory than mine can point you to the post. In any event......let us know what you decide and post a pic of your results!!!
            If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!


            • #7
              Here is one sight i have read about. also I have never tryed this myself. but i did read some where. that if you leave some thinkness to your wood. soak it in some water , let the grain raise, dry then sand , soak it again, let the grain raise again, dry, then sand it again. then dye it. this sounded like a good thing to trye. I wonder if they ment that would help the wood stabalize, befor the dyeing prosses. the one thing i do know is, if you sand after dyeing, you mess up the dying prosses.alittle. ??? maybe I'll try this myself , and let you know, how it worked for me. hope this helped. Evie


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