Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Segmentation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Segmentation

    I am just reading about using food coloring for staining wood in Segmentation and other scroll saw projects. I have also been told that Fabric Dye works well..........which is better?
    Joonbug

  • #2
    Although I have not tried it personally, I've heard that food colouring will fade over a short period of time.

    Comment


    • #3
      My wife uses Kool-Aid for dyeing wool. Not sure how it would work on wood though. Might have to try an experiment.

      Tim
      "All it Takes For the Forces of EVIL to Rule Is For Enough GOOD People To DO NOTHING!"

      Saws: Excaliber 30; Dewalt 788 'Twins', Makita SJ401 (Retired), Grizzly G1012 18" Bandsaw

      Comment


      • #4
        I've never used food coloring to dye wood, but I have used Rits fabric dye. It worked fairly well, but required quite a bit of sanding. You disolve the dye in water and soak the piece in the dye, the longer it soaks the deeper the color will get, this really raises the grain on a piece of wood and it needs to be sanded back down. The one think I really liked about the dye as opposed to paint was the grain of the wood showed through the dye. It did take a fair bit of drying time as well. I have also used acrylic paint to stain a piece. You thin the paint down with water and wipe it on just as you would stain, again this requires a bit of sanding, because the water will always lift the grain.
        Again just my 2 cents worth
        Marsha
        LIFE'S SHORT, USE IT WELL

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Marsha
          ...Again just my 2 cents worth
          Marsha
          Your 2 cents is worth big bucks in teh scrollsaw world. Thanks for all the tips!
          CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
          "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
          Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

          Comment


          • #6
            Fabric Dye

            A while back I was going to experiment with mixing fabric dye with denatured alcohol to stain a project. Thought it might not lift the grain as bad as when mixed with water. Never got around to doing it because I started playing around with artists oils and liked the initial results. I learned not to use odorless mineral spirits as a thinning medium though. The paint on the "Sybil" I did is just as wet as it was when I finished coloring it. I moved it out in the sun on my back deck in hopes it will dry!!! I have no idea when, or if, I'll be able to glue it up. I'll use turpentine to thin the oils on the next one. There's a site sponsored by RIT dyes that addresses using their fabric dyes to color wood but I no longer remember the link. It was discussed here on the board a while back and I believe the link was posted in the thread. Maybe someone with a better memory than mine can point you to the post. In any event......let us know what you decide and post a pic of your results!!!
            If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!

            Comment


            • #7
              Here is one sight i have read about. www.ritdye.com also I have never tryed this myself. but i did read some where. that if you leave some thinkness to your wood. soak it in some water , let the grain raise, dry then sand , soak it again, let the grain raise again, dry, then sand it again. then dye it. this sounded like a good thing to trye. I wonder if they ment that would help the wood stabalize, befor the dyeing prosses. the one thing i do know is, if you sand after dyeing, you mess up the dying prosses.alittle. ??? maybe I'll try this myself , and let you know, how it worked for me. hope this helped. Evie

              Comment

              Unconfigured Ad Widget

              Collapse

              Latest Topics

              Collapse

              • markdavd
                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                by markdavd
                I've been using the bags from Amazon and a heat gun my wife bought when she was a preschool teacher. Unless you are wrapping of small parts, you don't need a sealer. Just fold it over and hold it with a small piece of scotch tape on the back. After you shrink it it's sealed enough to keep everything...
                Today, 09:45 AM
              • NC Scroller
                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                by NC Scroller
                My process is a bit different. Since I am using heat shrink bags when you seal the open end you trap a lot of air in them. When you start to heat the bag to shrink it you create a large bubble. I continue to heat the bag until it does pop a hole. I have been doing this for years. The shrink wrap...
                Today, 07:42 AM
              • will8989
                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                by will8989
                None Linda. You need to find the right heat temp so it shrinks but doesn’t put a hole in the wrap but the tape doesn’t shrink or tear.
                Today, 12:20 AM
              • Linda In Phoenix
                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                by Linda In Phoenix
                What thickness of film seems to work the best for puzzles?
                The bags seem easier on the surface.
                But the film seems like it is more versatile on size variations.
                Yesterday, 03:24 PM
              • will8989
                Reply to Bruce, the one on probation
                by will8989
                Regulations are 150 square feet, this will be 144 square feet so we are good. He’s making it that size Since the sheets are 4’ wide. And the Shelves need to be 4” above my head!! It will be very specific.
                Yesterday, 10:32 AM
              Working...
              X