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I know this is probabley the wrong area to post this question but I know I will get the most responses here. If you could only buy one which would it be and WHY? a jointer or a surface planer? All responses are greatly appreciated.
Mike
Typically, for Scroll Saw work, you will get more use from a surface planner.
If you buy your lumber at the nominal (for USA) thickness of 3/4 inch (aka "1 by") the advanced woodworker will re-saw the lumber with a bandsaw and surface plane it to be 2 boards of 1/4 inch. ( the other 1/4 inch goes to bandsaw kerf and surface planner waste.)
A surface planner does not produce a perfectly flat surface parallel to the opposite surface, close but no cigar. Nor can it give you an accurate 90 degree square board edge to surface angle.
If you are doing mostly traditional woodworking hobby work, cabinet making, you will find the need to square the edges to the top surface. Also you will need to have a "flat" edge. Only a jointer can give you this. However, a jointer is not a good tool for producing a specific thickness of lumber. You can do it, but it is not the best tool for thicknessing.
By the way: There is a now a tool called a thickness sander. Made just to get 1/4 inch wood down to 3/16 or 1/8 inch thick. Very few of the hobby (less than $300.00 USD) surface planners are able to surface wood below 1/4 inch with out huge tear out.
Either way, for my money anyway, the need for a Dust Collector system is 1st. Until you start working with either tool, you have no idea of the volume of waste these tools make.
You can get uniform thicknesses on a surface planer, even if starting with rough timber, by making a sled under it. A jointer cant make an even thickness all the way through because you are resting one side on the table as you feed the wood. once you flip your board for the other side, that even edge is up, and not against the table. Also, wider wood can be surfaced on a planer. And yes, a sander like a performax is a priceless tool for cleaning up lumber! Dale
Planer. And if you don't have one already - a DUST COLLECTOR or some other means of catching the sawdust at the source. These things make a mess.
"Orphans are easier to ignore before you know their names. They're easier to ignore before you see their faces. It's easier to pretend they're not real before you hold them in your arms. But once you do, everything changes."
I could not get by without both of those machines. If you only have room for one why not go for a combination unit with a planer under and a jointer on top.
Rhys H.
For scolling I would go with the surface planer. I just bought the Dewalt 13""
If you do not have a dust collector the Dewalt has such a powerful blower you could get away with connecting a hose to it venting it into a cloth covered barrel.
Rolf
RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association
I have both types of saw A tilting table Hawk g426 and an Older Excalibur with a tilting head. Unlike Carole for bevel cuts I prefer the tilting head I do larger projects and it is easier for me.
Regarding compound cuts they are cut at 90 degrees.
If you have a good saw, and can set the table accurately, you should be good to go. Give a holler if you need help. ๐
Randy, I swapped out the clamps on the Jet for the Pegas clamps as soon as they became available. I found the Jet clamps just too fidgety for my taste.
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