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  • need help.

    Hi folks. I do need some help here. I have never scrolled mettale. and wont to add it to my tile. it has to be thin. and how would I glue it to wood. I Know. it has been talked about before. but save me some searching. and let me know what you do. darn I didn't wont to tell; ya, but I am doing a train, with a bridg. and i wont to do it in a 3D affeict. I know spelling. anyway. I am going to work with some differant woods. to get the train to look 3d. but i wont to add some mettale for the bridg. I can cut it out in wood. but wont to put a layer of mettale on top. to make it real. remember, it has to be thin. almost like. aluminom foil. but durabale. the cuts will be very small. almost cant use a drill bit small enouph to cut the chanales. Why in the world do I pick such hard projects. lol. but this is what i wont to do. thanks for all your help. your friend Evie

  • #2
    evie, being a former machinist I can tell you that metal is pretty easy to cut and you can find sheets of engraving metal usally brass, but I have also used aluminum and stainless sheets, some have a thin double sided tape on the back that will hold for a very long time. I have used it in thicknesses of 1/16 and 1/32, although I have never scrolled it before I have cut it on a bandsaw, I would recommend a slower speed and take your time feeding it in. Sorry I can't give you more help, but be careful as it will have very sharp edges.

    Wayne
    You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus...Mark Twain

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    • #3
      and use the proper blade. Ill look for a supplier for superthin metals. Dale
      Dale w/ yella saws

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      • #4
        Evie,
        If you can get to a Michael's, they sell metal in pretty thin sheets - many so thin that they come rolled up in a plastic tube. I think you will find some perfect for your project, which sounds soooooo cool. They have many colors, as well as silver, brass and copper. They can even be cut with scissors. I'm betting that it would cut very well on a ss if you put a really firm backer and topper on it - to keep it from following the blade up and down. Possibly you could even get it at a Walmart - that would probably be closer for you.
        And pay good attention to Wayne's warning- whatever method you use to cut it, the edges are SHARP and the cuts are no fun. (no need to tell you how I know that, right?)
        Sandy

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        • #5
          Sandy , thanks. I never thought of looking at michales. and that is one of the things i was worryed about. the edges. don't wont to cut someone. and get seued. ouch. but thank you . and also thank you Dale and Wayne. I stlll wont to do this. so I will be carfull. may be I could over cut it. to fold down the edges. did you guys have anything on glueing. ?( mettale to wood) your friend Evie Ps. aluminum is what would look the best. maybe i could. put vineger on it to make it look like that. mmmmmmm. don't know . thanks your frined Evie

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          • #6
            Glue

            Evie,

            To glue metal to wood, you can use Urethane glue (Gorilla glue, is one brand).

            You could also ask Neal for some construction adhesive, the kind that comes in caulking tube. That could also work.

            Your friend,
            Marcel
            http://marleb.com
            DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore.

            NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

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            • #7
              Evie,
              The silver colored stuff is probably just aluminum. You can sand the edges carefully. If you want the metal to look aged, sometimes you can get really nifty results holding it (with long pliers) in the flame from a propane torch - just an instant is usually good - it gets some really neat colors. If you want to try that effect, practice some on scrap.
              I think once it is glued down, there won't be much problem with the edges.
              Michaels has some glue called E600. or maybe it is E6000 - it is supposed to glue just about anything to anything. It is kind of thick though, so you need to spread it thinly with something like an old credit card. Watch out if you use Gorilla glue - it is good, but it kind of bubbles and expands as it cures - so you gotta use it really sparingly, especially along the edges, and watch out fot the - whatever-you-call-it -- maybe outflow. Clean it up as soon as possible. I use it for some pens I turn, and I need to add just a wee bit of moisture to most woods to get it to do right. When it cures, it's there to stay, though. That's what's good about it. Gosh - talk about long-winded!! Sorry - sometimes I just have to keep rolling or I forget what I was thinking!!
              Sandy

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              • #8
                Sandy, your pretty smart....................... for a girl!!! No seriously, I was thinking the same thing when I read gorilla glue. I cant imagine using it on anythinf fretwork, both because of the foaming gooey mess it can create, and the need for moisture to make it work properly. I also do use poly glue on turnings, pen barrel tubes into the blanks, and it does hold good, much stronger then the CA glues for that application.But for fretwork, I see it as a disappointing disaster in the making. And the E6000 is a great glue for bonding different materials. Thats what I use on gluing acrylic to wood, and it works great. It is thick to, like you said. If I cut the tube tip to the size I want, I end up squeezing so hard I rupture the tube, but I still use it, its great stuff. Dale
                Dale w/ yella saws

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                • #9
                  Sorry,

                  When I mentioned Urethane glue, I assumed that Evie was familiar with the foaming action of the glue.

                  While it is true that the foaming action can be a pain in the butt, if handled carefully it can work.

                  You need to be aware: that you have to put less glue than you would with PVA, that you have to stay away from the edges, that you need a little moisture.


                  But then, I suppose Silicone could also work.

                  Regards,
                  Marcel
                  http://marleb.com
                  DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore.

                  NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks Sandy. that is what i will try. E6000. and yes you are so smart. good for me. And Marcel yikes I was going to use Urethane. wow I didn't know that it foams.that would not be a good thing here. for i have little tiny holes in the breidg. and gorilla glue. well. mmmmmmmmm. may be not. I went to Micales today. and didn't find what i was looking for , sooooo. looks like i might do something differant. isn't there a spray on paint. that i can make. to look like mettale.? on wood? and can't i do a petina look. but I don't wont it green. nore does the custamer wont it to get greener. I am sure at a miss. here. Thanks for all your help guys. I could just cut it in wood. and paint it. darn. I think I will give this somemore thought. an Sandy , I will keep looking for that mettale. at michales. I know your right. and thats what i wont to do. your frined Evie

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                    • #11
                      Evie,
                      I'm sorry that you couldn't find any metal at Michael's - you might have to ask somebody. It is always in a place that I don't think is logical, but maybe that's just me . You could probably find it online at Michael's or maybe even some other hobby store, but I always like to be able to actually feel it - that way I can usually tell if it is right for what I want to do. Lots of times I'm doing something with a product that it was not intended to do.
                      As for painting wood to look like metal - yes, it can be done. Results are variable, depending on - well- lots of things, like the color and porous-ness of the wood, the thickness of the application - the area to be covered - probably lots more. Try the acrylics - just look through the metallics or gleams, or whatever name - each brand seems to have it's own. I stand there and shake up the bottles and then unscrew the tops to see what the actual paint looks like - you could probably get something pretty close to whatever you have in mind that way. (can you tell that the folks at Michael's are not always all that happy to see me coming??)
                      The coatings that form a real patina are much more expensive. They have actual powdered metal in them, and then you coat them with a chemical to age or patina them. Then you clear coat them to stop the action. That sounds like an awful lot to go through for something that is just a portion of a project - but if it is an important element, you just might want to try it.
                      I sure hope you can get this figured out - I'm getting eager to see it.
                      Your buddy,
                      Sandy

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                      • #12
                        Again Sandy , You have diffanatly gave me more to think about. and search for. you are a gem. I am sure I will be back for more impho,. and yes, this is getting begger thank i thought. just can't keep it simple. lol. like any of us do lol. thanks. your friend Evie

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                        • #13
                          metal...

                          try looking at your local hardware store...
                          do you have a Ace hardware or Orchard supply close by?

                          the only thing I can think of at Home Depot or Lowe's would be metal roof flashing, it comes in 8 and 12 inch width rolls but that might be to thin....

                          we've got some thin sheet metal at work, give me a size that your looking for and I could send it up to you..

                          Trout
                          Hawk G-4 Jetcraft
                          Fish are food, not friends!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Trout
                            try looking at your local hardware store...
                            do you have a Ace hardware or Orchard supply close by?

                            the only thing I can think of at Home Depot or Lowe's would be metal roof flashing, it comes in 8 and 12 inch width rolls but that might be to thin....

                            we've got some thin sheet metal at work, give me a size that your looking for and I could send it up to you..

                            Trout
                            Trout. I am not sure about the Ace and Orchard supply. but maybe they are here somewhere. thanks. that would be another supply place i could look for.

                            I might try metal roof flashing. but don't know how to make it not sharp on the edges. would sanding help. maybe i will try that. also i need only alittle piece.

                            as far as the size. I am not sure. not very big. the thickness is what i am looking for. maybe the thickness of a beer can. mmmmmmmm maybe thats what i could use. or soda, lol. well maybe beer, thats whats availabale. well maybe both would be sharp on the edges. no matter. the papper thing sounds good. inbetween. as not to cut my self. Thanks Trout. I'll look into those stores. your friend Evie

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