Manchester Hall Clock questions

[millwab]

Scrollers, I'm reading thru my plans for the Manchester Hall Clock before starting one for the first time. For those of you that have already built one, I have a few questions:

1. The clock face overlay can be made from brass or contrasting 1/16" wood. Any experiences that would lean one way or the other? I'm wondering if the brass overlay would be too much with the brass dial/bezel.

2. The overlay is 1/4" smaller than the backer, which would leave 1/8" of the backer exposed around the outside. Would this look better if the overlay filled the space (in other words, make it the same size as the backer) or does that 1/8" of contrast look better?

3. In attaching the sections together, is it enough to screw it together from one direction only, or would you recommend fastening from both directions for strength?

Trying to avoid problems the first time thru. Always nice when you can talk to someone that has already been there. Thanx for your help.

Bruce

[William Young (SE BC)]

Bruce;
I have made lots of that clock. I have lost track of how many but it is around 7 to 9 of them.

1. I made the overlays out of 1/8" baltic birch plywood.

2. I made the overlay to fill the space . I actually made it a little larger than the space for it to fill and after the clock was assembled I cut the edges off on my table saw a little at a time until it fit the opening just snug.

3. I use no screws or metal fasteners of any kind in any of my clocks. I use nothing but Aleene's tacky glue (brown bottle) for assembly and sometimes I add some extra hidden braces for strength even though they are not asked for in the pattern.

That is a nice clock to make. I generally stack saw two or three at a time and it is my second best seller in a clock in that size range. I have made them out of quite a few different woods from solid red oak and solid western red cedar and solid silver birch and even BB plywood stained in a color to match a customer's decor..
Here is one in western red cedar in it's natural color with no stain.
Excuse my poor photography.
W.Y.

[millwab]

Thanx, W.Y.
I kind of thought that the overlay would look better if it filled the space, although I never thought of oversizing it and working it to a tight fit. Thanx for the hint.

The reason I asked about screwing it together had to do with the caution on the plan. They show a hole on the rear-top ornament, but warn not to hang the clock from it unless the sections are "secured together." Then they talk about using support blocks to run screws through. I was wondering if the folks actually making this found it necessary to screw the sections together.

Is the Aleene's tacky glue widely available? I'm used to using yellow wood glue for most everything and never noticed if Aleene's is on the shelf. Is it a hardware store item, or do you have to order it from somewhere special?

Bruce

[SharonW0111]

You can get Aileens Tacy Glue in the craft section at Wal Mart or at any craft store- very common glue so it is eazy to obtain. As far as the carpenters glue I wouldn't use it on something that you may not want to have orangeish yellow showing. Carpenters glue shows when it dries- Alieens doesn't and I personally thing Aileens is just as strong so long as it isn't underwater, I use Aileens for everything that I want to be flawless.
Sharon

[William Young (SE BC)]

Bruce.
I do add some additional flat wood support to that area and it looks as if it was just a part of the pattern.
Then on the back of the clock I drill a hole for hanging the clock and with a permanent felt marker I print *hang clock from this hole only*.
Never had a problem with it.
And yes, Sharon is right about Aleene's Tacky glue. There is nothing better for clock making unless a new glue has come out that I am not aware of but any of the Titebond series or other yellow or white carpenter glues are not as good.

W.Y..