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Poor Mutated Cows...

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  • Poor Mutated Cows...

    Hi Everyone,

    Progress... today I cut another Farm Puzzle out of 1x1 poplar. It's definitely my best one yet -- practice makes improved though far from perfect! -- and the cows have no blood on them this time. Yay!

    However, out of the 8 cows in the stack, the bottom three lost their hind-most leg. They are poor, bloodless, three-legged cows. The top five have all four legs, though as the stack goes down the hind-most leg gets thinner.

    My table/blade are well squared, as best as I can see. Can this result from unintentionally putting sideways pressure or something?

    By the way, I placed a 70-lb bag of sand (well, my 18-yr-old son placed it) on the lower shelf I made for my Dremel 1680's steel stand. It has helped the vibration noticeably. I am still planning to make the sandbox, but haven't started it yet. Sandbox is "functional", puzzles and other gifts are "fun". So, I'm procrastinating the sandbox, I think.

    Anyway, any advice toward my poor little mutated cows?



  • #2
    Congrats on the cows.

    The taper can be from pressing a little too hard.

    I really think glacial speed is what is needed for this project.
    Double check the blade tension.
    I find I make my blade much tighter than normal when cutting this fine stuff.

    The speed of the turn on the corners will also place a slight strain on the blade causing the taper.

    Best thing is though no one needs to know the cows are cut from different wood, so you can keep the puzzle and make more cows if you need them.

    Good luck.
    "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
    Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21


    • #3
      Thanks, Carl, for your reply. I'd been keeping a good eye on the tension but haven't tried "more" tension than normal so I'll give that a go. Also, I've started a little cupful of extra cows already. You know the little wedge leftover that is the other side of the top of the milk carton? I started drawing another cow onto that wedge as well, then slicing it and cutting more cows. That way I'm more likely to have several good cows out of the wood, and also I can imagine all the kids at church are going to be asking for extra cows. As you said, they go straying pretty easily, or get broken legs as they're played with. Even sliding the carton all back together, one must be careful not to crunch those little leggies.

      Thanks again -- sure is a fun little puzzle. Except for the cows not yet being quite perfect, my last one came out really much better and more even. I oiled it, and it's good enough to give away!



      • #4
        coning. effect

        I tried making the compound farm puzzle again,
        material 1x1x2.5" red oak scrap.
        but, the puzzle parts would only slide one way. top of the carton slid to right but not to left to disengage ..
        i checked the blade for shine or discoloration, none,
        I checked the saw for table squareness, ok.

        puzzled i went on form and read other messages and found one that mentioned cone cutting, among other topics on the form someone was discussing the same problem i had, they was using one of the top end scrollsaw.

        from what i digested of the conversation
        "CONE CUTTING" evedint after forcing to much blade pressure, making turn cuts like where you spin the project with the blade cutting into scrap, cutting the smallest circle possible, 1/16" or so the scrap produced will be cone shaped, or applying to much feed pressure

        i'm guilty,
        I had this happen several times thinking nothing of it, i continued,

        Carl, CanadianScroller
        told me about this before,
        i was cutting thick material making hooks,
        but i wasent experiancing the small cone shaped scraps,
        my project hooks were different size-thickness in the throght and hook.
        we fixed the problem at that time by making the zero clearance insert.

        according to the post i read cone cutting is caused by forcing the saw to cut more than the blades capasity,
        due to being dull or improper tpi size for project, or just forced past its capability when user is seeking more speed cutting thick materials,
        which bends the blade in a backward arch,

        being the blade is supported closer at the bottom than top to the table. when cutting the blade bends less at bottom, while the top is allowed to bow more creating a cone shaped cut, simular to when you tilt the table, but this effect is caused even with the blade at 90 degrees and the tention set right, remidy as i understand it is simply let the blade do the work,

        maybe carl could elaborate or put the coning phenomia in easier terms than what i have been able to make clear as mud...
        Last edited by Thomp; 01-26-2006, 09:19 AM.
        Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster


        • #5
          Well said Thom!

          The harder you press on the wood the more the blade will flex. In an ideal cut the blade will do the work and flex little. In reality we are not quite so patient.

          I have experienced that phenomena, in fact I still do occasionally.
          I cannot stress enough that you must cut at the speed of a glacier. Let the saw do the work. The harder the wood, like Thom's red oak the slower you will have to cut.
          The thinner blades are not really meant to cut 1 inch thick stock, we are really pushing things to the limit here.

          I had much better success using black walnut than I did with the curly maple. The walnut was softer and I didn't have to press quite so hard.
          Also the black walnut was only 3/4 x 3/4 ... 25% less wood to cut.
          "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
          Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21


          • #6























            • #7
              Yup I need to go slower. I have my Dremel 1680 cranked up to its maximum speed, but confess to "pushing" too much. My blade does arch backwards. Also as a beginner, I'm working on making those little turns more precisely. As you have addressed, Thom, I can understand that the coning is probably happening to me. I think I'll use brand-new blades for the cows, and try to let the saw do the work instead of me pushing more than I should. It's definitely










              that way, but I guess it's supposed to be, from what you are all emphasizing.

              I'm using Olson ST 2/0 blades for the barn detailing and the cows. After I use up my little pile of blades I'll try some of those Flying Dutchman blades I've read about here on the forum.

              Carl and Thom, I do feel that this little project pushes those 2/0 blades to their maximum capabilities, and as you both as well as Steve say, one has to go really slowly and just relax and take one's time.

              It seems, Carl, from what you're saying, that though the detail aspect of 3/4-inch square wood might be more difficult (in that those wee cows become even tinier), the actual cutting would be easier on that 2/0 blade. I am wondering if you feel the 25% reduction in thickness might compensate for the corresponding increase in cutting intricacy for the cows, i.e, does the level of difficulty increase by using 3/4-inch wood, or does it all pan out about the same difficulty due to the wood being an easier thickness to work with.

              Also what you said about black walnut vs. curly maple addresses my ponderings about how pretty that puzzle would be made out of some of my 3/4-inch purpleheart scraps... Ever tried it?

              Thanks all,



              • #8
                I have to admit that cows cut that small are tougher.

                I did 5 that will stand across a penny but at that size they only have two legs.
                I will find a picture and post it.
                As for purpleheart, I have used purpleheart before for several projects. Some of it was wonderful another piece took me 12 blades just to cut out one project.

                Give it a try, you have nothing to lose if they are just scraps.

                Definitely use a new blade when cutting.

                I think the choice of wood is a compromise between strength and ease of cutting. Softer woods would be a charm for cutting but I am not sure they would survive the handling.
                CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21


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