Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Signing your work

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Signing your work

    i was wondering how many of you scrollers sign your work and, if you do, what do you use? thanks.

  • #2
    I've got a stamp that says: "Whimsical Woods by Fred Baginski" that I use on the pieces it will fit on.
    My handwriting is so bad that if I used a pen people might think I was a doctor!
    Fred


    There's a fine line between woodworking and insanity, I'm just not sure which side of the line I'm on!

    Comment


    • #3
      I use a hot iron. I had it made with my name and Hand crafted by on it.
      John T.

      Comment


      • #4
        I use a ball point pen before putting on the clear finish coat. A stamp wouldn't be considered a signature on the art or antiques market. Of course when it's an antique I'll be past caring, and as to art...well. I do think it means something to some customers to have a real signature.

        Comment


        • #5
          If you have a woodburning set you can use a writing tip to burn
          your name or initials on your work.
          Bill
          Delta P-20

          Comment


          • #6
            I also used a stamp.
            "Procuced with Pride
            by Mike"
            SD Mike

            Comment


            • #7
              I use an ultra fine point sharpie between coats of finish.

              Kevin
              Kevin
              Scrollsaw Patterns Online
              Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671

              Comment


              • #8
                I also use a fine point "Sharpie" of either black or brown between coats of finish. I also put the name of the project (if it has one), my signature and date on the back of the plywood or whatever.
                Moon
                Old Mooner

                Comment


                • #9
                  sharpie for me as well
                  Dale w/ yella saws

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    signing my work

                    I use heat to transfer a photocopy of a logo.
                    The photocopy is in reverse, The ink comes out the right way when it is transferred.
                    The wood has to be smooth.
                    CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                    "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                    Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have always signed my scroll saw work because when I'm done I am very proud of my accomplishments. On larger projects I have a large stamp that I heat with a torch. On my smaller projects I use a woodburning tool with a fine writers tip. I burn in the following: Hand Crafted By: My name, my addresss, my phone number and the date. I also lay one of the blades that I used in the project below my name and then put a generous bead of Contact cement over it so that the new owner of the plaque or project can see partially how the item was made. (everyone always comment on how small my blades are that I used. )

                      Dick
                      Practice Doesn't Make Perfect! Perfect Practice Makes Perfect!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Awesome suggestion on the blade. I often wondered what should be done with old blades.
                        CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                        "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                        Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Signing your work

                          I started signing my intarsia work a few years ago. I desigend a Logo and reversed the image and printed several copies onto one sheet . Made copies on a Xerox copier. And when I need one it cut it from the sheet.
                          Then I sand the backing board very smooth, then tape one edge of the cutout logo and use a small iron to re-heat the ink. ( Press firmly ) The ink transfers right onto the wood surface and you can lift it off (gently, leaving the tapeed portion attached to be sure all of the logo 'printed' to the wood. After the logo is applied I let the surface cool and then apply a finish. The ink will NOT run or bleed.
                          Jack Labor - Elmwood Intarsia

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I use a ultra fine Sharpie and put my name and the year like 06 and not the whole 2006 . I sometimes don't sign my work-depending on what it is -like a cross but I have one lady that insists that I sign what ever it is she gets.why I don't know but I figure that if it has my name on it then it is the best I can do..maybe it does make me try harder to be perfect on my pieces but heck -- thats just me.
                            Sharon

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Phanton--I have a lazer copier--would that work for like you are talking about?

                              Comment

                              Unconfigured Ad Widget

                              Collapse

                              Latest Topics

                              Collapse

                              • Jim McDonald
                                Reply to Bible stand
                                by Jim McDonald
                                A quick Google search for fretwork book stands showed pattern on Pinterest. Might be worth a look.
                                Today, 12:39 PM
                              • Quartz43
                                Reply to Spring Issue
                                by Quartz43
                                I agree that with fret work the grey areas may be useful but not needed for Intarsia and some others. It would not be difficult to use grey for some patterns and just lines on others.

                                Another thing to note is that not many have the ability, software or equipment to stitch patterns back...
                                Today, 11:02 AM
                              • Rolf
                                Reply to YoraHome Laser w/CNC Engraver/Router
                                by Rolf
                                This is only my opinion.

                                Hi Linda, My first reaction is it looks good, and my new toy craving started to twitch, but I thing it will be very limiting very quickly.

                                It is a small engraving machine and if that is what you want and need maybe OK. You are limited to 1/8 shank...
                                Today, 10:25 AM
                              • millwab
                                Reply to Peanuts #1
                                by millwab
                                I still have some puzzle blades from Ben Fink. Once I run out of them I’ll have to ask Denny what he recommends for a substitute....
                                Today, 09:56 AM
                              • Rolf
                                Reply to Spring Issue
                                by Rolf
                                [QUOTE=Quartz43;n873079]No doubt, the large patterns are a real challenge. Not many have a large size printer. Going out and finding a place to do large scans and prints is problematic with the virus and many of us are older.

                                I wish they would not print the patterns with the grey. Pure...
                                Today, 09:47 AM
                              Working...
                              X