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**jttheclockman** · 11-21-2005, 11:11 PM

I tried to blow your picture up but it lost all definition. From what I see 2 things happened. First do not know what saw you are using but it is rare to even be able to scroll 2" of wood unless it is a better saw. Anyway that is your problem #1 is trying to scroll 2 1" pieces. If you did the blade has to be super tight, no flex allowed. Second you have to have a good sharp blade and 3 no sideward push when cutting. All these things lead to a hard chore with a scrollsaw. But your main problem was the sideward push from what I see that caused this. One other thing that is very important is to have the table 90 degrees to the blade. Any deviation will cause a slant in the cutting. If this were me I would do it one of a different way. One would be to use a bandsaw but this would require some sanding. The second method would be to scroll the pieces individually. You can get mighty close to exactness and no one will ever notice. Third method would be to scroll one and then use a router with a straight bit and a ball bearing and make a copy that way. Hope this was some help to you.

**Thomp** · 11-21-2005, 11:52 PM

Thanks for the help you confermed some of my thoughts on side pressure and blade tention,

one end of the shelve bracket is perfect it is the 2 inch scroll, while the bottom end being one inch scroll is tighter and it was done last which could account for being tired allowing side pressure and blade tention,,
i can straighten up this mess with my 1 inch stationary belt sander,

but there will be a day when it wouldnt be so easy comming according to hoyle

the scrollsaw is a dremel 1680 the sub model below scrollstation.

the photo - camera is lousy, but can show the difference between alagators and elephants.

i was trying to show the tapered scroll, when compaired side by side one way was as tapered as a cork, the other way side by side the middle was bigger on both

**CanadianScroller** · 11-22-2005, 10:52 AM

Blade tension and speed would cause that the most.
Make sure you are using a big enough blade. Say a #12
Do not force the wood, let the saw do the work.
I have cut true 2" maple on a delta 16" before with no problems.

**Thomp** · 11-23-2005, 01:09 AM

Dont know what i was thinking, but apperently i didnt pay attention to side pressure while scrolling the small end which was done last, ?

expectation in getting done must have overcome me, ha
better pic. http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/att...1&d=1132725877 top and bottom in outside pic, bottom and top in red framed insert,, top and bottom relate to which was on top when scrolled out.

but after the results was observed, i just wondered why?

i have a future project i want to do with several house number idenification tags for hanging beneath rual post boxes.. and i couldn't see just how i could accomplish that if i couldnt complete a simple semi tight curve properly.

i did use a small toothed fd blade, 25tpi or so.. I gotta get them blades identified better....

Attached Files

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**CanadianScroller** · 11-23-2005, 07:57 AM

blade selection

For the longest time I used to think that the only way to get a smooth finish was to use a fine blade. I did most of my cutting with a #2.
It was SLOW work

So many factors determine the size of blade, the saw speed, the feed speed, the type of material you are cutting, the tightness of the curves, the list is almost endless.
As I practiced, I learned that the size of blade had less to do with the smoothness of the finish and more to do with the ease of the cut.
If you are stack cutting two pieces of 3/4 lick up the size of the blade, the speed of the blade and slow down on the feed pressure. That way the blade won't bow or twist as much on those curves.
Your second picture really does explain the problem much better.
Don't be disheartened, we have all been there.

**PiALaModem** · 11-23-2005, 07:57 AM

Just two more little things. It helps you to keep the cut vertical if you back off the forward pessure frequently and let the blade come back to its own vertical. If it moves to the side when you do this you know you're putting side pressure on. If you do it frequently it will correct the sideward bow for you and will help you get used to cutting straight in.

If you use a grounds tooth blade it's easier to cut straights and curves. On the curves try to keep your line of cut tangent to the curve -- that means none of the wood either before or behind the blade crosses your line of cut at any point. If you use a blade that's not PGT, you will need to adjust this line of cut in the direction that the blade naturally drifts, and this is harder to keep to.

**jttheclockman** · 11-23-2005, 11:24 AM

All good advice and at least you realized what went wrong. Just a question though are you plan on making these signs out of 2" stock??? Because if you are I would seek another way and have mentioned a few on my last post. Just a suggestion.

**Thomp** · 11-23-2005, 02:53 PM

my camera was giving me fits but with 2 halogen under counter low voltage lights I was able to finely get enough light on the subject to get a decent photo, that's what I get for buying a cheep camera..
---
the problem that happened with this project is why I bought a scrollsaw instead of using my jig saw which usually will make a tilted scroll.. or the tip of the blade takes a shortcut, while the jigsaw is great for yard decorations its not worth a flip stack cutting or cutting thicker stock such as 2x4 scrolls or tight angles, for the reason mentioned,
I was surely discouraged when my tight scrollwork flopped as if I had did it with my jigsaw.
-------
Carl,

I did reaccomplish the project doing each singularly and made a close match, close enough for this utility shelve brackets.
I guess in the future if I want to stack cut shelve brackets in fretwork I'll have to choose thinner material.. and route a larger section for placing against the wall.
I also need to buy new blades so I can keep track of size.
I had bought several accessory packages from home improvement center which was a mixed bag.. so # blades don't mean much among the Hodge poge collection I have.
I did buy flying Dutchman blade ***. pack which had polar blades in them I like them a lot.

thanks for the information hope I can remember all this
PiALaModem,.
Yea I know im bad at rushing things, and I do put too much side and back pressure on the blade. and I do make a conscious effort to allow the project to spring back in place by allowing pressure to the table up so it can move.. but I don't always remember that... lots going on while following that thin line with the wandering blade.
next purchase I am buying some ground blades, I know they help when using jigsaw, and they will be on my next order from mikes..... I have noticed the difference in the blade wandering and where the through blade (?technical name?)access is when compared with different blades, usually with a polar #5-6 my straight cut is 30 right degrease off zero through the blade. no matter the material speed or correction effort. but with finer blades and different manufactures the same blade will be 30 degrease off left of center. or more.
Jttheclockman,
as to the project of mailbox placks, I hadn't decided yet as to material, I was leaning towards cypress. which is available locally like pine is elsewhere, being a connifer it should resist mold and weather out nicely..
still deciding on just removing the numbers or making lettering and applying it to the placket. plywood I would think would fall apart in 2 years with all this rain in the semi tropical southern gulf area here,,,
the signs would be of 1 inch finished stock 5/8 to 3/4 after milling in usa
thanks to all for the suggestions, comments and ideas. if I can remember any of them and apply them at the time needed it will help me in my scrollsaw education,,,

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