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Glue ups

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  • Glue ups

    living in a smaller town Without a big bandsaw and plainer, I find it hard to get thin solid wood, relitvely quick,

    Although i do have lots of idle time and a small backyard shop,

    In which i have a tablesaw and can resaw 4" lumber and gorilla glue up then hand plane and or beltsand to a reasonably smooth 1/2 - 3/8' or even 1/4" if i really am careful..
    with good wood and close grain matching i have produced some nice thin wood pannels up to 24"x24"

    my question is "are glue ups exceptable in the professional scrollsaw community"
    Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster

  • #2
    Glue ups are perfectly acceptable. There are times when it is the only way.
    Even if the wood was available in wide pieces the cost would many time be prohibative.
    Not too many of us would have access to apiece of 24" x 24" hardwood. And even if we did even fewer of us have the skills required to plane that down to a thickness we could scroll.
    There are other times when bookmatching is a look we are going for, you just cant do that with a single piece of wood.
    "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
    Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21


    • #3

      Thanks for the comment, it's definately what i wanted to hear!
      I did recently find a local sorce for plained stock, a cabinet shop, Not Cheap! and he dosent resaw the wood he just plains it to thickness and charges accordingly, by original board foot, as the price is high as a cats back.. 5 or 6 times stock price, plus stock.
      never the less i thought i should get an openion before i started my first fretwork project the gentelmans box ssw fall issue...
      Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster


      • #4
        If you look closely, you can tell that John Martin, the test cutter for the box, actually glued up two panels to get the size he needed...

        But on second thought, maybe the photo doesn't really show that...



        • #5
          Glue-ups are definitly acceptable especially if you want to make quartersawn panels and do not want to pay the higher prices for quatersawn wood. The use of quartersawn wood is desireable because of less warping. You will get warping in thin boards especially the wider you get. Now I am not going to question the 24 x 24 board glued up but to me that is a case for plywood to be used. Now if you glue these up and then cut them down to size it seems like a waste of time.

          A few things come to mind from your post. First may I suggest looking into a bandsaw for resawing puposes. You can save yourself alot of money and time in the long run. Second I question the use of gorilla glue on the glue-ups. It is perfectly acceptable but what a mess this becomes and has a tendency to leave a dark line at the glue joint. If using lighter woods this could be ugly. May I suggest using Tightbond II or for darker woods Titebond III Even Titebond original works well with wood. It is alot easier to use.

          Third point here is I found if I plane a board down to 3/8" or 1/4" I have wasted a lot of money especially if that board started out as 3/4" This is where a bandsaw comes into play. If you resaw on a tablesaw, even with a thin kerf blade you still can not the results you can with a bandsaw. Now with that said have you looked into mailorder wood suppliers. You can get the size you want and they also will mix and match for you. It is cheaper in the long run also. Here are a few that are good to deal with and if you look in the yellow pages you may find some in your own area.

          Good luck and post some photos of some of your work. Hope this is of some help.
          John T.


          • #6
            i had some 5/4 red cedar left over from a blanket chest which was figured great, so i resawed it to 3/8 and glued up.

            no i didnt notice the glue up in the mag.
            The 24"x24" was for the back of a necklass - jewelery cabinet. and it did warp.

            using elmers polyurithane glue its epoxi based fills-foams and is clear not like gorilla glue, which is dark, i use polybulate plastic sheets"trashbags" to cover work area and latex gloves to keep the mess off me,
            but ill see bout the tightbond...
            I use to use elmers professional glue for all wood work, but experianced if the glue got on the surface it was impossible to finish with dark stain without spots where the glue had penitrated surface.

            AS to a bandsaw, if only i live 15 more years i might be able to afford a good bandsaw, capable of doing proper resawing.,, i didnt want to waste good money on a table model
            thankls for the information and comments;
            Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster


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