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laminating a photo or picture to wood

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  • laminating a photo or picture to wood

    I am trying to learn how to laminate a picture or photograph to wood. I have been told one method is decoupage. Any knowledge of other successful methods would be appreciated.Needless to say, I am a beginner.Help!!!!!! I would be happy to purchase any back issue that gives instructions for the feeble-minded.Thanks Tom

  • #2
    I have seen people adhere the photo to the wood and then pour a clear resin over the top of it. You can get at any craft store.
    John T.

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    • #3
      I like to us a product called podge. It is like a white glue.
      I like to thin it a little so it doesn't glob up.
      Almost any white craft glue will work.
      A point to remember though is that some ink jet printers will smudge with water based finishes.
      I have also used spray adhesive on both the wood and the paper to ensure a good bond. Then I have coated the finished picture with water based urethane.
      I prefer water based products for the clean up, even if they can be cause the fibers of wood to swell, a light sanding between usually corrects this problem. Once again the brown paper bag method seems to work best
      CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
      "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
      Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

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      • #4
        Tom:

        Your original post to this thread was your first post to this forum, so I extend my Welcome to you. I hope you enjoy your visits here. Do post some more about yourself in the new members' introduction area. Some knowledge of your style of work will help direct the answers.

        From my own experiences:

        1. The maker of Podge (Plaid Enterprises, www.plaidonline.com) has a sister product Royal Coat. I like Royal Coat. I recommend you don't use Podge or Royal Coat as a top finish because you can never loose the brush marks out of the finish. Neither is 'best' product for all woods, all photos, and so forth.

        2. Start with flat wood. Podge will not act as a gap filler between the wood and photo. Think first plywood (good hobby plywood like Baltic Birch, not home improvement store plywood) then solid wood. Warpage will impact later.

        3. I recommend you don't over sand the wood. At 220 grit and above, it seems the wood gets 'burnished' and Podge attached photos seem to lift off after a few days.

        4. You must 'raise the grain' of the wood before you apply either product. Wet wood with water, sand lightly with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper, repeat. Both Plaid products are water based.

        5. As other have (will) post, it is the photo paper, ink, and sometimes it seems like the phase of the Moon, but interactions with the solvents in the glue and the photo make it important you test a sample copy to scrap wood every time.

        5A. Your top finish on the photo, the solvent problem is there also. General rule of thumb; if you need a breather mask, gloves, and protective clothing to apply the finish, your photo aint going to be happy. Nope, not happy at all.

        6. There is no one glue perfect for every photo, type of wood, and solid wood or plywood.

        7. Sometimes, like spray adhesives like 3M super 77, what maters is the technique of your application that makes the difference. I am talking about a part of the photo becoming unattached to the wood. Uniform coverage and correct amount of product applied to surfaces does count. Too much product, because of solvent, could damage photo; too little and very poor adhesion.

        8. IF you find a water based contact cement product that will not damage photos or graphic art poster boards but will hold like kitchen counter laminate cement, you are now duty bound and obligated to report it. On this forum. Quickly.

        Phil

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