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I would also be interested in any info on the topic, I do intarsia, and have a few of the kits, but not sure of the process, I would appreciate also any info..I have sent you an email..thanks..Dennis
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Thanks much for the information! I'm familiar with cutting inlays, I guess I haven't quite put the 2 (marquetry and inlaying) together in my mind yet.
Don, sent you an e-mail as well.
Thanks again,
Kevin
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Marquetry
Kevin,
Like you, I became intrigued when I saw a marquetry club displaying their work and methods at a woodworking show last fall. Some time later I decided to give it a try. I really enjoy this new hobby and imagine myself continuing to do it for much time to come. I will try to keep this reply short but bear with me if I don't.
Carl has it right, a double cutting system is used by many, me included. Instead of trying to use my scroll saw I built a hand fret saw table with the saw tilt-able instead of the table. The long-throat saw is mounted onto a verticle ball bearing drawer slide that attaches to the underside of the table with a hinge for ease of use and rigidity with the operating handle below the table. I am currently using 6/0 jeweler's blades and have my saw set at about twelve degrees. The method I use has the waster on top and the insert veneer on the bottom. I use graphite paper to transfer my pattern to the top waster one section at a time and this is my cutting pattern with the bottom inserter being the larger and permanent piece of the picture. The desired insert veneer is taped to the bottom of the waster in the appropriate place with Scotch tape or easy-release painter's tape. Once cut the inserter is glued into place and held with tape while it dries. I use Titebond II for this.
The veneer I use is 1/42" thick, or about .024". It takes a large variety of veneer species and colors to obtain the desired parts of the picture you are creating. I currently have over a hundred and twenty pieces in my inventory. Positioning and grain orientation play an important part in the resulting look of your picture. Once the picture is completely assembled and the glue cured I carefully use a cabinet scraper to achieve a flat and even bottom surface before adhering it to a backer board. Once glued to the backer I use the scraper again on the face and then sanding sealer before fine sanding until I have a smooth flush surface.
A couple of websites that I am familiar with are www.marquetry.org and www.americanmarquetarian.com.
There is much more information that I can share with you if you care to e-mail me. Book titles, veneer sources, blade sources, table building plans, etc. I will be happy to share what I have so far learned. Keep in mind that I am only a beginner myself.
DonLast edited by don snethen; 07-28-2005, 12:50 AM.
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Marquetry
I have tried a few pieces.
The tight fit is made by tilting the table slightly and cutting both pieces at the same time.
The upper piece will fit into the lower piece with zero tolerance.
There are great books at most libraries.
Fox Chapel has several books on the subject.Last edited by CanadianScroller; 07-27-2005, 07:55 AM.
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Marquetry
Hi All,
A couple of questions. I recently saw some fabulous marquetry pieces and I'm intrigued. Now for my questions...
Has anyone here tried this? These pieces were perfectly flush with the surrounding wood, yet all different species were used, are they veneers? If so, how do you cut the wood to fit?
Finally, does anyone know off hand of some good websites/books/videos on the subject?
Thanks in advance,
KevinTags: None
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