I have just started to use the painters tape and then the 3m77 adhesive. So far so good. I was worried about the stay poser of the tape when doing the intricate parts. I usually do 3m77 straight onto pattern then straight to wood with the pattern. Want a good stick.
My worry about the tape then pattern was how well the pattern would grip the tape, but i haven't had any problems as of now.
Jesse
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putting pattern to wood....how?
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I've been using the tracing method for years. I find that it gives me a little time to get to know my subject more intimately. Clean-up has never been much of an issue. I have a variable speed random orbit sander that does a fine job.
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Originally posted by workin for woodI invented a new system...it involves a projector, 6 mirrors and a lamp. You have to use an even number..and odd number of mirrors will process the image in reverse. You need a high power lamp too, if you want the projected image to show up nice and dark on your work. Simply mount the mirrors and aim them at the saw /
I use clear packing tape on wood, spray glue on pattern, glue it on top of taped wood. Dale
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I invented a new system...it involves a projector, 6 mirrors and a lamp. You have to use an even number..and odd number of mirrors will process the image in reverse. You need a high power lamp too, if you want the projected image to show up nice and dark on your work. Simply mount the mirrors and aim them at the saw.
but seriously...I think people do the spray glue or packing tape ideas for fretwork style cuttings, but transfer paper for intarsias. spraying a pattern on the wood is not acurate enough for an intarsia, you need to combine transfer paper and tracing off your cuts to make intarsia pieces. For a fret, I think tracing would be ok, but way too much work, when you can just glue on the pattern.
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Shawn, I tried the tracing method and didn't care for it especially on an intricate pattern. I seemed to get some residue off the carbon paper that I couldn't remove from my nice white Finnish birch plywood. I use the lavender painters tape on the wood with the pattern spray glued to the tape. You will find the method that works best for you.
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I too use both methods, applying the pattern to the wood with adhesive and using painters tape between the wood and pattern. As Mike stated it depends alot upon which wood I am using. Oak ply does tend to have a tear out when used with tape. I haven't tried using Goo Gone, mineral spirits dabbed on the pattern with a sponge works fine for me.
I say give them all a try! And see what works for you!
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The difference in the tape color is the number of days you can leave it on the wood without having problems. Most of us usually cut right away so it doesn't matter what color you use.
Diane
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Originally posted by woodenfishI use the blue painters tape (still can't find other colors in my area) and the 3m spray glue. Works great. I also cover the whole piece with clear packing tape. What works for one might not be the best for another.
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I use the blue painters tape (still can't find other colors in my area) and the 3m spray glue. Works great. I also cover the whole piece with clear packing tape. What works for one might not be the best for another.
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Another problem with the tracing method is that it won't work for anything that requires accuracy...such as the wooden gear clock.
I use both methods (glue to wood and glue to tape). I just make sure the glue is tacky enough that I can lift it with my finger; that eliminates a lot of the glue residue. Then I use Goo Gone to remove the pattern; I'm lazy and like the spray container <GRIN>
Bob
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Originally posted by CanadianScrollerI
Some people like to cover the wood first with masking tape to make it easier to remove the pattern. I have not done that before.
There isn't really a right and a wrong way as far as I can see - it's whatever works for you. There are pros and cons to either gluing direct or taping.
With gluing direct there is the pattern to remove from the wood and any glue residue to remove - but you don't have the expense of painter's tape. I've heard people say the pattern adheres better this way too.
With painter's tape there is little or no residue and if you're stack cutting you can wrap the stack and hold it with the tape, killing 2 birds with one stone. You do have to be careful removing it from delicate designs though, and with a piece with a lot of holes it can be a bit tedious removing it.
I'd personally avoid the tracing method - as Carl says carbon paper can be messy - and I find tracing tedious ...
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I prefer attaching my pattern to the wood with spray glue.
Some people like to cover the wood first with masking tape to make it easier to remove the pattern. I have not done that before.
Carbon paper can be used, but I find that a bit tedious and a little messy.
I have also made stencils from the pattern by stacking an extra piece of wood under my original.
Once the pattern is cut out I take the thin extra piece and save it.
Next time I want to cut the same pattern I spray paint through my new stencil.
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putting pattern to wood....how?
Hi All,
Going to attempt my first portrait cutting any day now. I have read numerous (probably too many) articles and posts on the subject, and I need some advice. Some say that you use adhesive to attach the pattern to the wood, and others say to use carbon paper and trace the pattern onto the wood.
To me, using adhesive seems simpler. Are there any advantages to tracing the pattern onto the wood? I suppose I could try it both ways and see what works best for me, but what works best for you? Thanks guys! Any help would be appreciated.Tags: None
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