Here's another of "the wave" boxes, this one done in Ipe. This one is for my son's friend, also a surfer. The next "wave" box will be for the surf shop and I'm going to inlay the store's logo on the top -- which meant I had to learn to do some inlay, so here's my second attempt -- a pen box. I used a leftover piece of zebra wood for the inlay, into black walnut lid and bottom, with ash as the pen holder part. This one was my second attempt, and the first one came out amazingly well, thanks to all of the "how-to's" and tips on this forum - I'm really excited about expanding my options!
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Wow Patte, you are having way too much fun. Now tell us all the details, what kind of hinge did you use? Did you scroll the openings for the pens to lay in? Duh me.......I made a fountain pen for my sister's Christmas gift, and tried to make a box with the router....no success, and never thought to scroll it. Thanks for posting your sweeeeeet looking boxes, great job on the inlay by the way.Gloria ............... Two memorable things to say in life, "Hello" for the first time, and "Good-bye" for the last.
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Nicely done!"Still Montana Mike"
"Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC
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Wow, thanks for the nice comments!!!! The hinge is fascinating - the outer half-inch of the lid is cut away and the cut-away piece is glued on top of the same location on the bottom piece, and the front of that is sanded to round it over so the lid will open. Then you drill a hole through the glued-in piece, through to the portion of the top that you didn't cut away. Put a nail through the drilled hole (I hammered it a bit farther into the back of the lid, as well) and then fill with wood putty. For the pen slots, the part that I made in ash are cut out at an angle (I think 15-degrees) and then those two pieces are glued to the bottom and the lid (the parts in walnut). Pretty easy once you figure out what's going on.
I actually made the hinges for the "wave" box as well - following the theory presented in Steve's (I think) video, those get cut out and assembled very quickly and are SOOOOO much easier to apply than the brass ones!
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Nice clean work, lovely job.
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Reply to Frustratedby markdavdWhen a blade slips out, the tendency is to tighten it more. Make sure you haven't over-tightened the clamp forcing the sides apart. Most OEM clamps are made from soft aluminum so once it starts they will continue spreading and it will be near-impossible to keep the blades in place.
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Reply to Frustratedby Sandy OaksBlade slippage is a function of the blade clamp holder and or the set screw and thumb screw with swivel.
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Reply to Frustratedby NC ScrollerTricia what saw do you have? Does the blade slip or it just won’t tighten?
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Reply to Frustratedby wjbclocks1Are yoou sure that your not puting the blades to far up in the top clamps,. ( l learned thst the hard way)...
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Reply to Frustratedby cwmageeHave you tried to rough up the thumb screws tips? How old are the blade clamps? may be time to replaced them.
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