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  • #16
    I don't use a jig. Instead, Bruce cuts blocks of wood to size I need anywhere from 1' to 3' long. For the birds he makes 3/4" square. I then put the patterns on, cut off 4-5 in a strip, cut one side, tape with clear tape and cut other side. Works great for me.
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    Betty

    "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

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    • #17
      Ok so using the block method I have the blade a lot more square. It seems that depending on where I hold my head when it goes in from the back it fits a lot better. I don't know what to say about the up and down motion. If I have the blade all the way up with a thin piece of board up against it by the time it gets to the down stroke there is a gap when it stops in the down position. I can't tell how much of a gap but it looks like less then an eighth of an inch.

      How much back and forth play is there supposed to be in the arms that hold the two clamps? I'm not sure if my arms are to loose or it's supposed to be like that.

      I'm going to try a Xmas compound ornament and see what happens
      Thanks all

      Dan

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      • #18
        The front to back motion is very saw dependent. My old Delta was very aggressive 1/16 or more My Hawk is adjustable so I have it almost vertical. It doesn't cut as fast but I feel I have more control and precision. If the piece is bowed in the middle won't come out the top or the bottom then you are pushing sideways as you cut.
        Rolf
        RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Dan A View Post
          Ok so using the block method I have the blade a lot more square. It seems that depending on where I hold my head when it goes in from the back it fits a lot better. I don't know what to say about the up and down motion. If I have the blade all the way up with a thin piece of board up against it by the time it gets to the down stroke there is a gap when it stops in the down position. I can't tell how much of a gap but it looks like less then an eighth of an inch.

          How much back and forth play is there supposed to be in the arms that hold the two clamps? I'm not sure if my arms are to loose or it's supposed to be like that.

          I'm going to try a Xmas compound ornament and see what happens
          Thanks all

          Dan
          Dan
          Glad the block alignment tip helps. Now for the front to back movement. It should be best if the blade was in the same position at both the bottom and top of the stroke. When I first got my saw, (It was used but almost new), the stroke was off. I do not remember where in the stroke, but I felt I needed to adjust it. I found some help at the following website.

          http://www.scrollsaws.com/

          He has instructions on aligning the DeWalt 788 blade as well as many good videos on many aspects of scroll sawing. I watched every one of them and learned a lot in a short time. You will find the links to these videos and the alignment instructions in the left column.

          For the web alignment, just scroll down to the reviews section in the column at the left and look for "dewalt tune up". Click on that and then scroll down quite a ways to the section "Front and back movement." There it describes some of the causes and possible fixes.

          If you are brave, you may try to do as I did and grind minor modifications to the lower mounting holes and then re-tightening the screws. My blade now moves only about 1/32" in the middle of the stroke and is the same at the top and bottom.

          Also, remember to stop for a few seconds at the turn spot to let the blade catch up in the middle of the cut, and then make your turn.

          Best wishes
          Virgil

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          • #20
            So, I made the jig with the sandpaper and switched to a FD polar #5. Why do I have to push so hard to get the blade to cut? I'm real sure it's not going to look right by the time I get the second side cut. The saws speed is set at 2 1/2 but if I go slow it doesn't act like it's cutting. I also tried not getting the jig to tight. I just don't get it.

            Dan

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            • #21
              Try different blades, like stated above it is saw dependent. I have a Hegner and a Seyco sitting side by side. I use different blades on the Hegner than I do the Seyco, to do the same job. More aggressive blades on the Hegner, less aggressive on the Seyco. The forward/back motion is different on the saws. I even like different brands of blades on each saw. I love the Pegas on the Hegner, Flying Dutchman on the Seyco.
              AKA Paul from Washington State
              Hegner Multimax 22-V and Seyco ST-21

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              • #22
                Don't forget you are cutting through 1-1/2 inch material it will cut much slower than you are used to.
                Rolf
                RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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                • #23
                  I had trouble cutting once with a new blade and then discovered I had it backwards.

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                  • #24
                    I'm pretty sure the blade was in right. It was an 1 3/4 piece of poplar. Once I was done cutting I couldn't even get the piece to come apart out of the block. Which as I remember it, indicates to much pushing and making the blade bend.

                    For what it's worth I cut an ornament out of pine and it worked really well and it didn't look half bad. But I'm sure it wouldn't take much to break the pine ornament if it got dropped or knocked around.

                    Is there some other wood I could practice with first until I got used to the ins and outs of 3D cutting?

                    Dan

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                    • Dan A
                      Reply to compound cutting
                      Dan A
                      I'm pretty sure the blade was in right. It was an 1 3/4 piece of poplar. Once I was done cutting I couldn't even get the piece to come apart out of the block. Which as I remember it, indicates to much pushing and making the blade bend.

                      For what it's worth I cut an ornament out of pine and...
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                      Reply to Mass Production
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                      I also cannot perceive making that many of anything. I just finished about 30 of the mini birdhouses and am ready to start something new.

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                      Reply to compound cutting
                      vgraf
                      I had trouble cutting once with a new blade and then discovered I had it backwards.
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