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Trouble with Excalibur saw

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  • oicur12
    started a topic Trouble with Excalibur saw

    Trouble with Excalibur saw

    Recently I received an Excalibur. For the first 3 or 4 weeks it worked great. I like to cut 3-D patterns. Suddenly when I cut 2 X 2 stock the top blade holder strikes the wood. Is there an adjustment I can make the will increase the cutting stroke? Thank you.

  • Berta
    replied
    You don’t use that back knob for tensioning the blade. That was a lesson I learned

    Leave a comment:


  • oicur12
    replied
    Thank you all for your kind help and suggestions on repositioning the are. Wonder haw it got out of alignment. Anyway, thanks for your help.

    Leave a comment:


  • NC Scroller
    replied
    [QUOTE=Rolf;n858703
    Scott ,You used a BIG. I havn't seen one of those in years .[/QUOTE]

    It is the dang autocorrect on my Kindle. TBT I am a bad speller but not that bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • will8989
    replied
    I have been smacked a few times, but now I have the fastest left arm on the east coast when it needs to be pulled back.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim McDonald
    replied
    Originally posted by hotshot View Post
    Anyone ever let their finger get between the top clamp/arm and the wood? Easy to do when cutting thick stuff, and can make you squeal for a bit.
    I have been smacked by the knob on the blade holder. It amazing how fast I can move my hand and get my foot off the pedal when that happens.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rolf
    replied
    Welcome to the group OICUR12! Lots of helpful and very talented folks here. We would love to see pictures of what you are making.

    Scott ,You used a BIG. I havn't seen one of those in years .
    When I bought my last saw It was between the Hegner and the Hawk, the Hawk won because the Hegner bashed my finger, the Hawks design gives you much more room under the arm.

    Leave a comment:


  • NC Scroller
    replied
    Originally posted by hotshot View Post
    Anyone ever let their finger get between the top clamp/arm and the wood? Easy to do when cutting thick stuff, and can make you squeal for a bit.
    Hurts like @#$%&. That is one of the reasons I use a jig
    ​​​​​to hold the block when I compound cut.
    Last edited by NC Scroller; 07-03-2018, 12:47 PM.

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  • hotshot
    replied
    Anyone ever let their finger get between the top clamp/arm and the wood? Easy to do when cutting thick stuff, and can make you squeal for a bit.

    Leave a comment:


  • tgiro01
    replied
    Here is the PDF of the Excalibur Manual -- http://www.general.ca/pdf/machines/e..._21_30_ENG.pdf . Look at the adjustment paragraph on the bottom of page 13.

    I notice that the manual no longer says the arm has to be perfectly parallel to the table, but that is how the rest of us were taught to adjust it by Ray Seymore. I think my old manual page says so, also. I have cut 2-inch thick material with no problem when the arm was parallel to the table.

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  • Sandy Oaks
    replied
    Like Randy said. The arm should be parallel to the table Use the back knob to make it parallel.

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  • hotshot
    replied
    Your arm worked down on you. When you cut thick wood, the clearance is pretty tight anyway. The back knob will move that arm back up.

    ------Randy

    Leave a comment:

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