Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Blade too close to guard - tension problems

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Blade too close to guard - tension problems

    Hi, I've been scroll sawing since 2015, so not really a newbie, but am not sure where to post this - Over the last month I've been having problems with new blades stretching to almost the edge of the guard when I cut, whereas the blade used to always be in the middle of the guard and cut really fast, until around 15 or 20 minutes in when I would have to increase pressure and the blade would almost hit the edge, and that's when I would change the blade.
    I used to be able to put a new blade in without loosening the tension. Now, I have to loosen the tension all the way so that both ends of the blade hit the top and bottom (where they're inserted). Before, I did not have to do that. Is that normal that you have to loosen the tension so that the blades reach the top and bottom (where they're inserted)? Sorry, I hope that made sense?
    I'm wondering if the tension button is screwed or the spring that's on it is screwed, and I have to get a new one? Someone pointed that out to me, but they never scroll saw, so don't really know what's going on.
    What could it be? The blade should be tight enough that it does not go to the edge of the guard, am I correct? Btw, I have been cutting 3/4" stock with Flying Dutchman #3 spiral blades, .039 dia - .016t - 40tpi
    The first photo is a take of the blade almost to the edge of the right side of the guard (brand new blade), and the second photo is of the machine itself and the top tension knob.
    Thanks! DSCN4264.JPGDSCN4265.JPG

  • #2
    Sorry but I have no experience with Delta saws. I can tell you that 15-20 minutes of use is normal for blade life. I doubt the blade is stretching at least to the point of it being detectable. You are pushing more then you realize as the blade dulls. You might also consider switching to a #5 or #7 flat blade like a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse.
    Scott
    Creator of fine designer sawdust.

    Comment


    • #3
      On most machines if you dont loosen the tension all the way on the blade change you will throw the tension adjustment way off as you will the adjust afterwards to tighten the blade and soon bottom out your setting.
      https://www.etsy.com/shop/BeasleyTurnings
      Stabilized blanks and more

      Comment


      • #4
        What model Delta is this?
        I see this delta has a quick tension release. The way it should work is to release the quick tension lowering the front of the top arm. The blade should should bottom out in the clamps. Then flip the quick tension clamp back. Adjust the tension knob for the proper tension for the blade you are using. Most of us remove the guard as it is more of a nuisance than useful.
        Have you checked for side to side movement in the arms? Another problem I had with my Delta SS350 The link that connects the back of the arms has no bearings and was getting worn. I replaced it when the parts were still available. I put white lithium grease on it when I re-assembled. The saw purred after that. 40-540-16-Inch-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-SS1D.pdf I know this is not your saw as it has the quick clamps but part number 135 is the link I am talking about.
        Rolf
        RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Rolf View Post
          What model Delta is this?
          I see this delta has a quick tension release. The way it should work is to release the quick tension lowering the front of the top arm. The blade should should bottom out in the clamps. Then flip the quick tension clamp back. Adjust the tension knob for the proper tension for the blade you are using. Most of us remove the guard as it is more of a nuisance than useful.
          Have you checked for side to side movement in the arms? Another problem I had with my Delta SS350 The link that connects the back of the arms has no bearings and was getting worn. I replaced it when the parts were still available. I put white lithium grease on it when I re-assembled. The saw purred after that. [ATTACH]n857567[/ATTACH] I know this is not your saw as it has the quick clamps but part number 135 is the link I am talking about.
          It's a Delta 40-560C....What do you mean by the blade should bottom out in the clamps? Did you mean that the tips of the blades should be touching the tips of the ends of the clamps? Sorry, I hope that made sense?
          Yes, there is slight left to right movement in the arm (I circled it on the photo as I'm not sure if I'm talking about the same arm as you)...
          Am I supposed to loosen the tension when installing new blades in this machine? I never had to before for almost a whole year....
          Is the drift normal on this piece of wood? I could swear the blade used to stay in center position for around 15 minutes, but now it goes almost to the edge of the guard with a brand new blade, and I'm using the same 3/4" stock since 2015 (spf)
          When you say guard, I've circled it on the photo - is that the one I should remove? What about the bottom red plate?
          Sorry for all the questions, my work seems to be taking me twice as long, for example, that deer head in the photo should only take me 15 minutes to cut out, but it's taking me 1/2 hour with the drift I seem to be getting these days!
          DSCN426(2).jpg

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by NC Scroller View Post
            Sorry but I have no experience with Delta saws. I can tell you that 15-20 minutes of use is normal for blade life. I doubt the blade is stretching at least to the point of it being detectable. You are pushing more then you realize as the blade dulls. You might also consider switching to a #5 or #7 flat blade like a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse.
            I don't think I can use any blade but spiral blades because I make shutters with cutouts and most of them are more than 35" long, am I right?

            Comment


            • #7
              If you don’t take the tension off before you loosen the clamps you will need to after you replace the blade. Than retension. If not you won’t have any tension on the blade. You should be able to pluck the blade with your finger nail and get a ping. The thing you call a guard is a hold down arm. Take off an put somewhere you will forget were it is lol. You are probably getting side movement because the blade isn’t tensioned right.

              Comment


              • #8
                A small amount of side to side movement in that part of the upper arm is probably OK. The guard may have moved on you. I would remove it. Or you can adjust it so that it is centered. I have attached the linkto the pdf manual for your saw page 17 has the lubrication suggestions and locations. file:///C:/Woodstuff/Manuals/Delta%20%2040%20560%20ss.pdf

                The bottom red plate has to remain. Like Trackman said the blade should ping Like a "C" note in music.

                Questions and helping other scrollers is what we are here for.
                Rolf
                RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                Comment


                • #9
                  What if I do have a high-pitched ting-ting-ting when I strum the blade and it still is drifting? - I'm a bit confused still over the tension thing - is it the knob I'm supposed to detension completely during a blade change? I pretty much turn that knob at maximum tension after I flip the tension bar back up to tension the blade - I hope that made sense.......

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Maisie Yes that makes sense but as the others have said you may be running out of adjustment . if you start with the tension knob screwed in too far.
                    To eliminate the confusion follow the instructions in the manual page13.
                    Basically the lever is the quick tension release for when you put in a new blade or feed it through a hole for a new cut.
                    This is what I do when I put in a new blade for the first time even on my Hawk saw. Back off on the tension knob (CC) completely Delta 40 560 tensioning.jpg pull the lever forward, that lowers the front of the arm. install the blade. flip the lever back. Now turn the tension knob CW until the blade has the proper tension.
                    From that point the only time you need to touch the tension knob is if you go to a smaller or larger blade.

                    That tension knob should not be screwed all the way in, you should still have several turns left if you needed more tension.
                    I have seen on these old Deltas. when you flip the lever forward the arm binds a bit and doesn't lower completely. You can push it down a bit more
                    Last edited by Rolf; 04-28-2018, 08:30 AM.
                    Rolf
                    RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                    Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                    Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                    And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have this same saw. As Rolf said above the rear connecting rod has gotten worn. Or loose. Unlike Rolf parts were not available when I needed them and had to make my own.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Maisie, did you ever get to the bottom of this issue?
                        Rolf
                        RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                        Comment

                        Unconfigured Ad Widget

                        Collapse

                        Latest Topics

                        Collapse

                        Working...
                        X