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  • #31
    I've had my Dewalt for 8 years now. When it was new, I could get the right tension around 3 to 3.5 Using it yesterday I had to go to a 5. As soon as I finish with my ongoing projects, DH will be taking the saw apart to see if we can't get the tension adjusted.
    Point being - each saw is different, and one can change over the use.
    Theresa
    Theresa

    http://WoodNGoods.weebly.com

    http://woodngoods.blogspot.com

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    • #32
      Well all of those 4.5s and 5s make me feel much better. I still will double check to see if roughing up the clamps a little more helps. And I will also try pushing the arm slightly left. Forester, if you come up with any good tricks, please be sure to let us (me) know.

      Hopefully I will get to sit down now and start using it again. I got off track building my brother a book case.

      Thanks again everyone, for being so helpful.

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      • #33
        One thing that was mentioned to me when you ar getting blade slippage is the fact that with scroll sawing we get really fine dust that will almost wotk like ballbearings in the blade clamps. We have also heard that some of the blades come with a little oil on them to prevent them from rusting after they have been cut. I always after a few uses of my dewalt take the air compressor with the high power nozzle and shoot out the blade clamps to try and eliminate any dust that has build up on the actual thumb screw and the set screw. Seems to work. Hope this helps.

        Jesse
        http://www.scrollsawwoodart.com

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        • #34
          Ok, I have the very same saw, never an issue with the adjustment/tension of the blade. I've read all the post(s) and have to add one more tid bit here. Nothing is referenced back too if you have the Jim Dandy hold up bar attached to your saw, I do and from time to time I have to give the upper arm of the saw during a blade change that extra little nudge to push it into place or I'd have the same issue(s) that you're speaking of, just a thought.

          cutting up one piece at a time

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          • #35
            As a last resort

            if you regularly clean the manufacturing oil from your blades and have exhausted all other reasons for blade slippage then look on the left of the blade clamp for the small Alan screw there. The end of the Alan screw should extend just a hair beyond the inside face of the clamp jaw because that is what the clamp screw pins the end of the blade against. If it doesn't stick out far enough the clamp screw will try to pin the blade against the clamp face and that is too soft to hold. Use an Alan wrench and screw the Alan screw just far enough to clear the face of the clamp. That should solve your problem.

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            • #36
              just thought i'd chime in. im usually at 5 also.

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              • #37
                Hoover makes a good point. I always ensure the arms are positioned at the bottom of the "down stroke" before clamping and tensioning the blade. I seldom have to go past 3 on my tension setting.
                If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!

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