Aloha everyone!! I am a new to this wonderful artform and have a couple of very basic questions about blades. I am trying to cut two pieces of 3/8" plywood at the same time. The blade that I am using is a regular tooth with 15 TPI. I selected it to use based on nothing so maybe it is completely wrong. It is burning my wood really badly and it seems like I am really forcing it. The cuts that I need to make are fairly curvy. What kind of blade should I be using?? Please help!! Thank you --Heather =)
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See this post.Mike
Craftsman 16" VS, Puros Indios and Sam Adams!
Scrollin' since Jun/2006
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A good rule of thumb when selecting blades is to have at least 3 teeth in contact with the wood at all times.
This will minimize splintering, if the blade has skipped teeth then there is ample space for the sawdust to fall out of the cut without getting a buildup, which would lead to burning.CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ"proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21
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Welcome Heather!
Birch ply can be quite tough, the amount and type of glue in the plywood makes a big difference too so it varies. It sounds like your blade ought to be OK but if they are generic blades and not one of the top brands they could just be dull and difficult to control, there can be a lot of variation in a batch.
If you are not using either Pegas, Olson or Flying Dutchman blades buying some would be one of the best moves you can make. Sometimes you can find a blade you like that isn't one of the top three but mostly it transforms what you're doing to have a really good blade. Mike at Mike's Workshop (Check out the Other Great Sites link in the left column for his site) does a sample pack of Flying Dutchman so you can try a range of solutions.
If you put clear packing tape over the pattern when you cut then it helps stop the burning. The plastic tape melts and lubricates the blade. Bizarre but true.
ChrisLast edited by BobD; 02-16-2007, 09:48 AM."If you march your Winter Journeys you will have your reward, so long as all you want is a penguin's egg."
Saws: AWSF18, Meccano Mk II
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by handibunnyRolf, smaller bowl-cutting angles, 30˚ or less, usually don't present a problem either with vibration or for cutting into the table. It's when you get into the 40˚ and 45˚ range that things get dicey for both. (The Seyco saw doesn't even cut bevels greater than 35˚ or so!) If you add even a slight...
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Channel: Tools and Blades
Today, 09:21 AM -
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by Bill WilsonI've done some bevel cutting on my EX-21 as well and also have not experienced any added vibration, nor have I cut into the table. Perhaps I haven't cut at a steep enough angle, but the existing blade hole has been sufficient. I do despise the useless vacuum holes, but I've learned to live with them...
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Channel: Tools and Blades
Today, 09:06 AM -
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by cwmageeCarole Your hole size was a concern when I purchased the Pegas Replacement Table for my EX21, because I had cut into the side of hole on the original table, The damage I did to the old table was due to the blade adjustments were not in the center of blade holders. So far that has not been an issue...
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Channel: Tools and Blades
Today, 08:40 AM -
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by RolfThat is an interesting point Carole. I have done some bevel cutting on the EX and can't say that I have experienced an increase in vibration or any problems with following the lines. I know when I cut one of your bowl designs on my Hawk I really had to concentrate on not pushing down hill....
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Channel: Tools and Blades
Today, 07:28 AM -
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by handibunnyJust a word of caution about the size of the blade hole. When I used a DeWalt years ago in the infamous community woodshop, and also with my more recent experiences with the Jet, if you do much bevel cutting at a steep angle, you will cut into the table. That's why inserts have the slot that can be...
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Channel: Tools and Blades
Today, 06:21 AM -
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