I have a simple question I think. When finishing a fretwork clock, can I glue the pieces together after dipping in the finish. Or do I glue first?
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lantern1
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If you use lacquer, it does a good job of disguising CA glue that seeps out of a joint...
BobLast edited by BobD (Archive); 01-30-2007, 10:38 AM.
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Ian -Bob to be honest I really don't rember- I have used BLO a couple of times but didn't find it to my likeing so I went back to poly . I do know I can't get squit to adhere to anything I have any type of finish on - that is with all glues not just one. I have to glue first or sand a spot or two on the piece that I need joined . glue won't adhere to most paints or stains either.I have mentioned before that I have discovered the most wonderful way to bring out the grain and put a undistructable finish on my projects. I use clear concrete sealer. It woks beautifully and really makes the grain jump out .just be sure and use in a well ventalated area.
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Clear concrete sealer? I would have never thought of that!!! Jotting down notes though ... that could be interesting indeed!! Thanks for sharing the trade secret Sharon. Sharing Sharon!! I new nickname perhaps? LOLShoot for the moon. If you miss you'll be headed for a star! www.80artdesigns.com
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Just a thought, how about using some striping tape where the joints are, and then finishing the piece. Then remove the striping tape and glue up the joint. If squeeze out is an issue, tape the inside and outside corners of a joint with painters tape before gluing so the squeeze out lands on the tape. David Marks of DIY woodworks always tapes first then glues second.Jeff Powell
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Reply to Marc Tovar's MLT-13by evilbadgerBob
I don't remember which one I used but I think it was somewhere around #12 which is .029 diameter. Anything between 12 and 19 will work you would just adjust your slot width. There is a pattern for bending it to shape do you have that?-
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