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  • would this be true

    i was at work today, and got talking to a customer who said that if i buy a scrollsaw, in order to get acuracy i should really buy a round 360deg blade, it has teeth all the way around it, is there such a thing, has anyone used it.
    steveb

    edit:
    sorry, this probably in the wrong section, please move it if it is.
    Last edited by stevebuk; 12-24-2006, 04:01 PM.
    http://www.cabincraft.co.uk

  • #2
    Steve, I think they are referring to a Spiral tooth blade. Like the name sounds the teeth are in spirals around the blade. I know a lot of folks who do potraits use them. I have been scrolling about 4 years now and have yet to get the hang of using them. Just give me the old fashion blades with the teeth facing forward......

    Scott
    Scott
    Creator of fine designer sawdust.

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    • #3
      Steve, "round" or "spiral" blades are found most everywhere blades are sold. I think they come only in plain end, not with pin ends. With them, you can cut without turning the wood, BUT you sacrifice tightness and fineness of the cut and, in my opinion, some accuracy.

      Carter

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      • #4
        thanks guys, funny that, i have just come across a site advertising these blades, i will probably try them at some point.
        http://www.cabincraft.co.uk

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        • #5
          Hi Steve, there are a lot of people on here that use the spiral blades with great success. I do suggest that you try them and form your own opinions. As for me I could not control my cuts and the cuts were not smooth enough. Just my two cents worth. Steve
          If This HillBilly Can't Fix it Then it Ain't Broke!!!
          My Gallery
          [email protected]

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          • #6
            Steve.
            I think you will find that well over 90% of scrollers use flat blades for the reasons already stated . Regardless of make you will get a smoother cut and more accuracy following lines , a narrow kerf line which translates into less sawdust and faster smoother cutting with flat blades when compared to spirals. Not many use spirals for solid wood. Mostly just for plywood where any style of blade tracks better than with solid woods.
            They do have their place especially for ones that started with them and stayed with them but if you take the time to learn how to use flat blades I bet you will never go back to spirals unless you occasionaly need to. There are some cases where I need to use a spiral blade but very sedom so I keep a few on hand just for that.
            W.Y.
            http://www.picturetrail.com/willyswoodcrafting

            The task ahead of us is never as great as the power behind us

            Delta P-20 Scroll Saw, 14" x 43" Craftex Wood Lathe and Jet 10" Mini Lathe .

            Comment


            • #7
              hmm interesting comments there guys, thank you. I am just a bit worried about turning the wood without breaking the blade, and i am not sure how tight a turn one can make with them.
              Only time will tell, i guess..
              http://www.cabincraft.co.uk

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              • #8
                I am sure that you will break many blades as you learn to saw.
                I still break the odd one.
                Depending on the size the the blade you can do some very tight turns.
                There are other was to make sharp inside corners without turning a blade too.

                The cutting techniques for spiral and flat blades are completely different and I think all scrollers should master both. There are somethings that can only be done with a flat blade and some that can only be done with a spiral.
                The question is, how often will you do them.
                Some portrait scrollers use spiral blades exclusively, but anyone who compound cuts or does inlay work will find the flat blades are the only way to go.

                I have yet to see spiral blades with pin ends...that may just be that I have not seen them but I don't think they are manufactured like that.
                Blades are the most inexpesive part of scrolling. And scroll saw blades are by far the cheapest of all saw blades so there are no excuses for not having lots of them around.

                Try as many blades as you can on all sorts of materials. If you are cutting something in particular and would like a suggestion, just ask, You are sure to get lots of replies. There are as many answers as there are members.

                Keep asking questions and you will learn enough to put us all in our place in no time.
                CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

                Comment


                • #9
                  There actually were some true round blades (not spirals) they looked like small round files. They had a very large kerf which looked great on the right project I still have a few. To my understanding they are no longer made.
                  Rolf
                  RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                  Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                  Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                  And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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                  • #10
                    Steve, in my opinion, the essential skills in good scrollsawing is the ability to turn a regular blade without exceeding the desired cut and without breaking the blade. The former is a much harder problem to solve than the latter. Don't worry about breaking blades. That problem, if there is one at all, will go away quickly with practice.

                    Carter

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                    • #11
                      I have to agree with Carter...I started out with flat blades, and it made my transition to spirals much easier. I feel comfortable using both blades now.

                      The best practice I've found for working with flat blades is to take a piece of scrap wood and just draw a series of straight lines about 1/2" apart across the grain. Then draw a series of lines with the grain, again about 1/2" apart, making a grid of 1/2" x 1/2" squares (really arbitary numbers...) Start cutting across the grain until you hit the first intersection point, spin your blade and come back out. Then cut in to the second line, and repeat the process until you have a very small hole where you spun the blades.

                      After you are comfortable rotating and coming back out, go to the intersection point, and rotate 360-degrees and continue cutting to the next line. Boring as it may seem, I promise that if you work on this for a couple hours, you will not regret it!


                      Bob Duncan
                      Technical Editor
                      www.GrobetUSA.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        hi bob
                        when you say 'spin your blade and come back out' does this mean turn your blade 180deg and cut your way out, or what. If so, how close to the first line cut do you go.
                        sorry to ask daft questions, but this is new to me..
                        steveb
                        http://www.cabincraft.co.uk

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                        • #13
                          Steve, don't think you are asking daft questions, they aren't daft, that is how we all learned to do things.

                          Bob
                          Delta P-20 & Q-3

                          I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me!

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                          • #14
                            Sorry Steve, that was my fault! I wasn't clear...

                            The goal is to rotate 180-degrees and come out the same cut. You are trying to learn to minimize the turning radius. My first few had teardrops at the intersection point because I got off the line and had to cut back onto it. But after some practice, it gets so that you only see a small dot...

                            I'm horrible at illustrating things, or I would just post a diagram of what I'm saying...anyone else out there understand me who is more talented with the illustration programs????

                            PS...i forgot to mention that you should spend an hour or so just cutting along a straight line so you can learn how to angle the saw to compensate for the "blade bias".


                            Bob
                            www.GrobetUSA.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Rolf,

                              [html]There actually were some true round blades (not spirals) they looked like small round files. They had a very large kerf which looked great on the right project I still have a few. To my understanding they are no longer made.[/html]
                              You are correct, they had teeth like they chopped them in a round stainless steel rod. Not milled like all other blades. They used them in the Dental industrie in East Germany for cutting tental molds. After the wall came down, they dismantled the factory and sold the equipment as scrap. Volker Arnold found some of the blades and I bought about all he had. Volker and others tried to find people who worked at that factory with no luck. The company, I buy from, tried to make some close to the round blades but they did't come close to the round blades. The trouble is the round steel shaft. Spiral blades are flat blades what has been twisted.
                              Just a little history. Happy New Year.
                              Mike
                              SD Mike

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