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Crosses - a couple questions

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  • Crosses - a couple questions

    I've made a couple of crosses and have some questions before finishing them off:
    In the past I've put my signature on all my work with a brand - but it is kinda clunky and is obviously not going to work on most scrollwork - and definitely on these crosses - so what do you folks do? - or do you even sign your work at all?

    What do you provide to hang the cross on a wall? - again - the fretwork doesn't lend itself to anything more than a small hole - the shaping of the scroll itself will allow it to hang on a nail - but the nail would be visible. I've been thinking of providing a small piece of velcro. Again - what do you folks do?

    Last question - I see some crosses have backings - some are on plaques, some nothing - is there a rule of thumb? My wife and I have talked about this quite a bit - she opts for no backing - at least on these three (so that means the decision has been made .....)

    Thanks for any advice - terrific forum.



    Jay

  • #2
    First rule of scroll sawing is that there are no hard and fast rules. So to answer your last question, if that is what "the boss" wants than that is the way to do it. Personally I frame all my work (even the crosses) so I can not answer the question of hanging, but I would use the smallest nail possible and still be able to support the piece.

    I do sign my work, but again mine are framed so signing is easy. I have thought about how to sign a few decotative pieves that I made for my wife, but have not yet settled on anything.

    DG Dewalt 788

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    • #3
      I sign (initials and year) all my stuff with an extra fine point Sharpie. Not a very elegant solution, but small projects don't pose as much of a problem.

      Hanging delicate or elaborate fretwork pieces without a backer can be a bit of a challenge. You may have to get creative, depending on how much area and material you have to work with. I've used epoxy or CA glue to fasten a small sawtooth hanger. Sometimes I'll glue a small block of matching wood to the back of the piece to give me a little more meat to attach the hanger with brads or small screws. A friend of mine once attached thin wire to a piece by drilling holes at very shallow angles, that allowed him to thread each end of the wire through them, without piercing the front of the piece. It was a little tricky, but he made it work. You could also glue small blocks and drill through them to accomplish the same thing. These methods work best on light weight pieces. If the piece is heavy enough to put too much strain on the hanger, then a backer and/or frame is probably the way to go.

      I agree with Richard, no hard & fast rules in scrolling. Go with what works for you, best compliments the project and suits the boss. I generally like backers because you can add some contrast that helps the piece stand out, plus it solves the mounting problem. Like Richard, I also like to frame pieces. It all depends on the project.
      Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

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      • #4
        This is very helpful - thanks!


        Jay

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        • #5
          Good question! Something I have been struggling with myself. I think crosses are big sellers but how to hang them? That is a problem for me as well. The wood is too thin for nailed hangers and I have decided that the hanger must be glued but how and where. It must be balanced. I've looked at this Gorilla glue but I don't like it because it leaves a bubbly mess to look at. Elmer looks better but I'm not sure it's strong enough. Super glue seems to fail on heavier projects. I just don't know how to do it without making a larger backing.

          I am open to any and all ideas, like you.

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          • #6
            My personal favorite is Titebond III. It bonds solidly to most materials, doesn't foam and is readily available in several sizes. Just a tip, buy glue in a size container that you will use up in a couple of months. Its cheaper in the long run, than throwing out half a bottle that has gone bad.

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