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Glueing patterns

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  • Glueing patterns

    Hi, I'm pretty new to scroll sawing been doing it about a month now. Looking at some of the posts and pictures here have been a big help and I've seen some great looking stuff. I've had one problem I'm hoping someone could help me with though. I've been using elmers spray craft adhesive to glue my patterns down but when I try to peel it off it leaves a sticky residue most of the time just wondering a better way to go about this to avoid the residue cause its a pain to get off the piece.


    The latest pieces of done \/
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I cover the wood with blue painters tape then stick the pattern on the tape using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. When finished cutting the blue tape and pattern come right off and leave no residue, I also put some clear packing tape over the pattern to prevent smearing of the pattern and most say it also lubricates the blade. HTH.
    Bob making sawdust in SW Louisiana
    with a EX-21


    • #3
      Yea I just read about putting tape UNDER the pattern on someone else's thread, I feel dumb now cause the answer was right there had I just looked more. Thanks for the tip! Do you think packing tape would work under the pattern just as well as the painters tape?


      • #4
        Yes it will work except it is harder to remove, blue painters tape is so much easier.
        Bob making sawdust in SW Louisiana
        with a EX-21


        • #5
          hahahahahohohohehehe - Only 1 month into it and you have asked the proverbial scroll sawyers question - how should I stick my pattern on the wood?! I think there is a counter somewhere on this web site and it says something like 7 gazillion members. That translates into about 10 gazillion different ways to stick a pattern on the wood. And every one of us would rather 'go down with the ship' than admit there might be another way to stick the pattern on the wood different than the way each of us is doing it.

          But, in the end, I'd say use the method that works best for you. I am a rubber cement guy, myself. However, I have used the tape down first, and I have used the flour and water method, and I have tried a variety of spray on adhesives. Rubber cement seems to be my ongoing favorite sticker. But, I am not married to it. I just like it for right now.

          I say keep on trying and keep on reading the posts on this web site. You'll eventually find something you like best then you'll be arguing with some and advising others.

          I hope you have a long and happy and enjoyable scroll sawyer life.

          I've Got A Lot More To Learn
          About Leaving Battlegrounds Alone
          "~~ Molly Venter


          • #6
            Mineral spirits should remove the glue goo. It'll also remove glue left behind by tape.

            As John suggests, I'd try several different methods to see which works best for you. I don't have the problem tvman mentions with packing tape sticking if I de-tack it a bit by sticking it to my jeans before putting it on the wood. If I don't, then it's sometimes tacky enough to pull up the grain when it comes off.



            • #7
              Hello Justin
              Well said Powakee! I , too, like rubber cement. But buy it from a tire repair store, not a craft store. I skip all the tapes and the mineral spirits. Spread the back of the pattern and apply to the area of the board you want to cut. It can be picked up and repositioned if necessary. If is seems too dry, add a bit more rubber cement, but never so much to make the paper wet. A new can is often thin, I like it a bit thicker, so I will often add my new into my older can, to get the desired consistency. I have tried lots of the other suggestions, but go back to the rubber cement, and at a fraction of the cost of all the tapes and solvents.
              Another thing I have heard is to have the copy done in red ink. The lines are easier to follow.
              We have done some of the clocks and the ability to reposition is a must for me. I can cut my parts often on a table saw or band saw and do a dry fit before cutting the fretwork, which is the time-consuming portion . The rubber cement will rub off with your hand or with a eraser and does not interfere with the staining.
              Definately try different things but enjoy your hobby. Good Luck


              • #8
                I like using the school glue sticks. Water based so if needed just dampen the pattern w a little water.




                • #9
                  My choices blue tape or removable contact paper under the pattern and I use a Xyron machine for the adhesive.
                  RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                  Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                  Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                  And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association


                  • #10
                    +1 for using mineral spirits
                    Creator of fine designer sawdust.


                    • #11
                      Quick wipe with mineral spirits cleans up any residue


                      • #12
                        I use a belt sander (hand-held, upside down). I sand everything anyway, so this is easier than messing with extra layers of tape.


                        • #13
                          Haha! I use (a lot of) spray adhesive, then cover with packing tape. Make sure you press the tape down well and there won't be a dust issue. Using a lot of spray adhesive makes it a royal pain to remove the pattern, but I never have to hold the pattern down with one finger while cutting because I didn't put enough on.

                          Remove the tape after and it takes half the paper with it, then I spray with mineral spirits to remove the rest, wipe to remove residue.

                          Also, I'm impatient, so I use an old hair dryer to dry the mineral spirits more quickly. Then on to finishing.
                          Mark Abbett


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