Help with pattern attachment - PLEASE

[Ouch]

I used to put patterns directly on the wood using carbon paper. (OK, now you know I'm old!)

I have been trying the method of putting the pattern on the wood using a spray adhesive and covering it with packing tape. This doesn't work too well for me. Sometimes sawdust (or some kind of junk) gets between the tape and the pattern and I can no longer see where I want to cut. I recently saw a person on u-tube place packing tape on the wood, followed by the pattern sprayed with adhesive.

Please please please tell me what is the best way to put a pattern on wood or some other product. ANY clear help will be greatly appreciated.

Jim (OUCH)

[stephenD]

Jim. A lot of us use the blue painters tape on the wood, then spray adhesive the pattern to that. The painters tape will work as a lubricant on the blade to reduce the burning. This way, if you don't like cleaning the adhesive off the wood you will be happy it is stuck tot he tape and will easily pull away leaving the wood nice and clean.

[ChuckD]

And some of us are cheap. I use the cheapest Masking tape I can find, put it on the wood, spray the pattern heavy and put it on NOW. Drill the holes and cut. If it starts to smoke (or if I smell burning) I put a layer pf clear packing tape. It is easy to poke holes in the tape.
If while your are cutting and the pattern starts to come up (which I don't have a problem with) Have a roll of scotch tape handy or even a glue stick handy and use it to hold down the flying pattern. Another tip is to have a Popsicle stick with a tapered and pointed tip. Use it to hold down the pattern close to the blades until you get back into the glue.
Have fun and Good Luck

[dgman]

[Okie]

I use the blue tape but then most of the time I put elmers glue on the pattern. I rub it on with a popsicle stick and when it dries you don't have to worry about it coming loose. When you finish cutting just peal the blue tape off and it done.

[Mayo Farmer]

Hi Ouch. You'll probably get a few variations on the theme here.

I'm with ChuckD and use the cheapest masking tape I can get.

I get fed up with:
- the spray getting on the table
- the nozzle clogging
- never knowing quite when the aerosol would run out

so now I just use a Pritt stick, plus if the pattern does come away in the odd spot it's easier than an aerosol to fix.

Good luck

[marshall]

Jim in my findings , I always try to spray the pattern spray on the pattern the day before my drilling and this way the pattern is glued and dry . I don't use notting but the pattern spray and i use the heat gun to remove the pattern . [ Cheap Heat Gun from Harbor Freight Tools ] I know everybody's got there own method of doing this - and this works best for me ......I tryed putting the pattern spray on for a couple of minutes and then drilling the holes and it didn't work well at all - sawdust got under the pattern and it was a pain to see and cut .....this way I have my projects glued up and waiting for when I'm in the mood for cutting .....MB

[Danny]

I use contact paper/shelving paper. I buy the cheapest roll I can. (one roll lasts me a long time) I then cut the contact paper to fit the size of board I am using. Then "peel and stick" on board. I then use spray adhesive to the pattern and attach on top of contact paper. When cutting is completed, just peel off contact paper.

[tvman44]

I put the tape on the wood and then put the pattern on the tape using the spray adhesive, works real well.

[markdavd]

In the long run, I find the 'cheapest' method overall is to put blue painters tape directly on the wood, then spray glue the pattern to it.

Why do I say 'cheap' when the blue tape and spray glue cost so much? Simply time. The few extra pennies per project is well worth it when I consider the amount of time I'm saving.

I can spray the back of the pattern in a few seconds (I have a spray box set up to catch any overspray) and can have it in place quickly. I also don't have to spend a lot of time with mineral spirits or glue gun to remove the pattern, and I won't miss a piece like I might with tan or clear tape. (Early on, I found that one missed piece of tape can easily ruin a finish.)

[Bill Wilson]

As you can see, Jim, there are a variety of methods for attaching patterns and each one works well for those that use them. Like Dan said, the secret is to rub the pattern and the tape down thoroughly. Whether you put the tape on first or the pattern, I think this is important. Not only does it keep dust from getting under the pattern and obscuring the lines, it helps prevent the pattern from lifting.

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

Merry Christmas!

[lilcee]

A lot of good suggestions here. I was doing it backwards lol. I was gluing the pattern to the board and then putting the contact paper on top. No wonder I still couldn't remove all my pattern. Duh me lol. I'm going to try it the other way from now on :-)

[Pintail]

I use contact paper/shelving paper. I buy the cheapest roll I can. (one roll lasts me a long time) I then cut the contact paper to fit the size of board I am using. Then "peel and stick" on board. I then use spray adhesive to the pattern and attach on top of contact paper. When cutting is completed, just peel off contact paper.

Does contact paper provide lubricating or do you still need clear tape on top of the pattern?

[Danny]

I really don't know if it lubricates it or not. I don't have any burning when I do cut...maybe it does. But I don't put any tape on the top of the pattern just the contact paper and pattern is all.

[wwalker47]

I do use clear contact paper on the wood then spray the pattern and put it on the contact paper and then I put clear packing tape over the pattern. Works for me and it the residue is minimal.

Just my way.

-Bill