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What am I doing wrong - help

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  • What am I doing wrong - help

    I was cutting the box sides careful to follow the line down the middle. I was supprised when I turned it over. It turned out the cut on bottom side wandered all over the place, almost comming out the side. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.
    Here's pic of project. I asked a question about cutting in another thread but, that was before I saw this terrible mistake. Wood is slightly over 1" thick and the walls should be 1/4". They are on top but, bottom is a mess.
    Thanks,
    Regis
    Attached Files
    An old beginner leaping in.

    Pleased with my new EX-16.

  • #2
    http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/off-topic/41547.htm
    Last edited by Wood Dog; 11-17-2011, 12:28 PM.
    Gloria ............... Two memorable things to say in life, "Hello" for the first time, and "Good-bye" for the last.

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    • #3
      It appears you may have several things going on at the same time.

      1. Blade not square to the table.
      2. Not tight enough tension. You blade should not deflect more than 1'8" side to side.
      3. Pressing too hard on the wood. Let the blade do the cutting don't force feed it.
      "Still Montana Mike"

      "Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
      Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC

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      • #4
        WD,
        I've read and learned from those tips on squaring. I've set it and check often by cutting in a little and turn around check for fit. Being new and not "really" knowing how tight tight is, that is possible.
        Pushing is likely as I don't really understand unless to keep on the line I am pushing to one side or the other. I expect that is my problem but, don't know how to correct and stay on the line.??? This is the kind of thing that teacher over-the-shoulder is great for but, no such thing like a class around here. I'm going to have to find some way to practice this.

        Yes, that is the Steve Good guitar and case. Those tuning keys were real tough to cut but, otherwise no intricate cutting. For my daughter for Christmas (if this turns out good).

        Thank you,
        Regis
        An old beginner leaping in.

        Pleased with my new EX-16.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Regis. I really feel for you, it must have been a bitter disappointment when you turned it over and saw that the blade had not cut square. I endorse everything everyone has said but I would like to point out that I think there is a possibility you were using the wrong blade as well, for 1inch thick wood I think I would go for a 7 or even a 9 blade and ideally one of Mikes ultra reverse. Never push the work into the blade, let the blade do the cutting and take your time, there is no rush, it takes a long time to be really good on the scroll saw but you are doing well. I love the design.

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          • #6
            Regis for tension check out this link on Judy Gale Roberts site.
            The sound will tell you the right tension.

            Scroll Saw Tension
            Rolf
            RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
            Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
            Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
            And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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            • #7
              I think Mike nailed it. I suspect that a slightly larger blade & more tension will help. Try to really focus on not applying side pressure when trying to follow the line. I know it's tough, but it causes the exact problem you are experiencing and the thicker the material/smaller the blade, the worse it will be. With a little larger, more aggressive blade, you may not feel the need to press so hard. Even so, when you do catch yourself doing it, it's probably a good sign that the blade is getting dull.
              Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

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              • #8
                To make sure you are not applying side pressure frequently loosen your grip on your work piece while the saw is running. Not enough to for the piece to jump. This will let the blade bring things back to center. It won't take long and you will be doing this every few seconds without even thinking about it. Like the others pointed out, slow is fast. Just feed the blade.
                For tension on the blade tighten until you have a nice high pitch ping when you pluck the blade.
                Last edited by oily; 11-17-2011, 02:50 PM.
                May the wind at you back .....
                Not be from Lunch.

                Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive.

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                • #9
                  Thanks everyone. I started with a #9 crown and it did not want to go very well. Switched to a #9 skip tooth reverse. I've been using Olsen. Just got sample of FD in.
                  That Saw tension link is pretty helpful for me. I don't think mine is quite tight enough. And I will try the stop & everything settle every few seconds to see if that helps (makes good sense to me). I think I've been moving a little tooo fast, especially after a couple simple successes.

                  Thanks again for all the help.
                  Regis
                  An old beginner leaping in.

                  Pleased with my new EX-16.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Try a FD-Polar #5 or number 7 blade. Run your saw speed relatively fast, and keep your feed rate slow, and even. On wood that thick, I wouldnt recommend a blade with reverse teeth, because they tend to hinder the removal of the sawdust, and by cutting one inch thick, thats a lot of sawdust to expel on each stroke.If the sawdust cant be cleared from the kerf, the blade heats up, you push harder to get it to cut, and the blade wanders, you get frustrated, and then its all downhill from there.
                    Dale w/ yella saws

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