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Thin line cuts with no entry point shown

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  • lucky788scroller
    replied
    I would suggest much like Bill W stated. Drill the smallest entry hole you can get by with, and try placing it at an intersection in the veining if its possible. One other thing to do is get the size #71 drillbit, and some 2/0 size blades (Mikes Workshop sells both) . Drill your hole, and use the 2/0 blade to start your veining line. A 2/0 blade leaves a very narrow kerf, and for veining lines it really is to small of a kerf, but dont worry. Just use that 2/0 blade and cut about 1/8th of an inch then stop. Next, remove that 2/0 blade, and put in the #3 or #5 or whatever flat blade you were using (providing you werent using a ginormous blade, or a spiral larger than a 2/0) . Now that youve started that veining line with the 2/0, you should be able to feed a larger blade through that #71 sized hole you drilled and cut a little ways with the 2/0.Now using your larger blade cut that veining line. Once youve tried that and done a few of them, you will find you can do it and not see any drilled entry hole .

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  • ChuckD
    replied
    Here is a trick I use for vein lines that would look "not as good" with a wide spot. Use your smallest bit. Remember you only need the the thick part of the blade to cut. Drill the very small holes next to each other on the line so you can insert the "thick" part of the blade thru the side by side drilled holes. You will probably need more than two holes but you will have a line that is no wider than the smallest drill you have. I use a #71 that I get from Mike. They are small....Good Luck

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  • Bill Wilson
    replied
    If possible, I try and put the entry hole at a sharp corner, or intersection of 2 lines. Otherwise, it's a matter if trying to blend it in to make it look like it's supposed to be there.

    I sometimes will sand/grind the very tip of the blade to a point, so it fits more easily into the smallest entry hole possible.

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  • ubgoofy2003
    replied
    Mustng, I know where you are coming from. I find, at times, the blade end is always a little bit larger than the cutting shaft of the blade. Therefore, it is difficult to insert the blade through a small enough hole, for hiding the drill hole. If you can follow that. I alway do like Mike says, work the hole into the cut. Good Luck

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  • HAMMER
    replied
    Very small drill bits and blades like a #62 bit will help..


    See Mikes Work shop for examples

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  • wood-n-things
    replied
    Actually we are not magicians, it is practice and technique.

    If you will start your entry hole at the widest point of the line which is called a vein you can then cut out from both directions from the entry hole and feather out the entry hole just slightly to hide it. You can also start at one end and make the entry hole more teardrop shaped by cutting down one side of the hole and gently feathering your way to the center of the vein, back up and go down the other side of the entry hole.

    Sheila Landry shows it best in her tutorials. Take an afternoon and watch her videos. You will not be sorry!

    Online Scroll Saw Class - Incredibly Fun Adventures in Scroll Sawing #1: Introduction - Sign Up and Objective - by Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

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  • mustng
    started a topic Thin line cuts with no entry point shown

    Thin line cuts with no entry point shown

    I am a new beginner. Several patterns show fine thin line cuts such as in a flower that show no beginning insert "hole". I find I must drill a hold at least as large as the widest part of the blade which of necessity is wider than the width of the cut. Hence there is a larger hold at one end of the cut yet the pattern does not show this type hole and the picture of the finished product shows no such hole but only the thin cut. How can such a cut be made without a starting hole to insert the saw blade?

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