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Basic - changing blade type in project??

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  • Basic - changing blade type in project??

    Another beginner question. I'm cutting sides of a box. Some areas have long straight runs and slow curves. Other areas have tiney detail with sharp turns. Some of these go into sharp details at one end of long straight runs.
    Question: Do you change blades to match level of detail even if it is in the same cut area? Or do you use a small blade throughout if there is tiney details anywhere on the piece? It's bit of dilema on my akward blade change saw (dremel). Long cuts look a lot cleaner to me with wider blades. Is that simply lack of experience?

    Thanks,
    Regis
    An old beginner leaping in.

    Pleased with my new EX-16.

  • #2
    Let me ask a few questions first.

    What wood are you cutting? and how thick?
    what Blade are you using? Pinned?

    Then jumping ahead.. I use a #5 Ultra reverse for anything I do in 3/4" wood.

    Cutting a straight line is sometimes the hardest. just go slow and allow the saw to do the work. (Practice makes perfect).. If it is just a full straight outside cut, I sand to the line. The same with outside circles.

    Just be patient it will get better over time..
    The other John A. Nelson
    johnsworkshop.com
    sigpic
    I just follow the lines and make sawdust
    on a Seyco ST-21 and a Yellow DW788

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    • #3
      I do occasionally change to a different blade in the same piece. For example, I may use a different blade for fine veining than I would for some of the other inside cuts. On long, relatively uninterrupted lines, sometimes I'll switch to a larger blade, to take advantage of it being easier to get a good, consistent and fast cut. I sometimes try to plan ahead, making small detailed cuts with the finer blade, until it gets dull, then switching to a larger blade when I'm going to change anyway. If I'm making a lot of ornaments, for example and I can take advantage of a different blade, I will make the same cut with that blade in multiple stacks of ornaments, rather than cut one stack to completion before going to the next one. Then when that blade gets dull, I'll switch to a smaller blade and go back and make the finer cuts. It all depends on the wood and the pattern. It isn't necessarily something I do all the time, but I don't hesitate to do it if I feel it works better for me in the particular situation.
      Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

      Comment


      • #4
        John, I'm cutting a stack of 4 1/8" birch plywood using PG495 #5DRG blade. I have a dozen of several different blades so I can learn what they do.

        Bill, I appreciate the comments and it seems like I should experiment some. I do understand the change for veining.

        Thanks,
        Regis
        An old beginner leaping in.

        Pleased with my new EX-16.

        Comment


        • #5
          It is very easy for me to change blades on the Hawk, I have several premounted in blade holders. So to answere your ? I do change blades especialy when I cut my ornaments. All my detailed cuts are with a 2/0 Olson and the outside of the ornament with a Mach 3 Olson.
          Rolf
          RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
          Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
          Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
          And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

          Comment


          • #6
            Bill Wilson was reading my mind.

            Most people will change blades in some of the situations you described--especially when it comes to fine detail and then larger for removing bigger pieces. Sounds like you're beginning to do fret work and my advise is get a series of three or four blade sizes you are comfortable with and make them your stable of "go-to" blades.
            Jim
            When looking at the clock at work--the correct time is:
            Too early to leave, too late to call in.

            Comment


            • #7
              After I attach a pattern to a piece of wood, I then study it a bit for my "plan of attack" if you will. When I want to cut out certain pieces and which blades will I need to use. For the most part though I use just one blade unless there is "viening" or other smaller pieces to cut.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi Regis. You raised a very interesting question and one many beginners will ask. What suits one person may not suit another and at the end of the day it is down to experience. You will find as you go along you will know at a glance the best blade for the job. As an example i am cutting Christmas ornaments out from 9mm birch plywood at the moment, about 4 inches round. On the inside intricate parts I am using a number 3 blade but when I cut the round both inside and outside I use a number 5 blade, both scroll reverse from Mike's workshop. Dong the same thing on half inch hardwood I use the same blades but a 5 for the inside and a 7 for the long round sections. I tend to cut in batches of 10 or 20 so I don't change blades so often. Hope this helps. Happy scrolling.

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