How to sand very small inside areas?

[janisfriesen]

I am working on the Greyhound clock pattern by Sue Mey. It has lots of very tiny inside areas and I wanted to know what people are using to sand those areas. Also, some ideas on how to push those small pieces out when cutting.

Thanks,
Janis

[Mick Walker]

Janis, those tiny pieces should just fall out after they are cut. Check to make sure your blade is square with the table, you may be cutting on a slight angle. The pieces should still come out either at the bottom or the top. Sanding should be minimal if you are using a good blade, they cut smoother than you could sand. Tiny files or strips cut from sand paper could be used if needed. Those emery boards that you ladies use for fingernails work great also. Be sure to show us a photo of your clock.

[Carter-Johnson]

Janis, not sure about sanding, but I know there are sanding strips that you attach to the saw like blades.

My problems working with tiny pieces and for glueing tiny spots were solved by buying a set of those tiny jewelers screwdrivers (they're at any dollar store) and using the smaller two screwdrivers.

Carter

[Rolf]

Ther should be no need for sanding. Maybe just on the edges for removing a few fuzzies, but there are alternative methodes for that.
As Mick said the pieces should just fall out.
What blades are you using ? and yes pictures are a must.

[shadowfx97]

Are you asking about the inevitable "fuzzies" on the back side of the work or the inside cut surfaces?

[oregoncarver]

I use old dental tool to push pieces out when they get stuck. Also use the same tool to get rid of most fuzzies from the back.

Arthur

[Hawaiilad]

I agree with everyone here, check to make sure your table is square to your blade. But for pieces that do get stuck, I use an ice pick to push them out. Inside cuts should not need sanding if you followed the line and did not over or under cut. I do that at times when I am cutting a round hole.. They do make small sanding tools that will help when the inside cuts need to be sanded. Just be careful that you do not break off any small pieces when doing this.

[janisfriesen]

So here is the picture of the first one. I was using Poplar. The piece laying under the project is some mahogany that I am going to use to start over. I checked my saw table and it was a little uneven, so I fixed that. Do you think a #5 Ultra reverse blade is the way to go?

Thanks for all the advice I listen to it all.

[tagordy]

I use old dental tool to push pieces out when they get stuck. Also use the same tool to get rid of most fuzzies from the back.

Arthur

[janisfriesen]

Projects almost finished

It has been some time since I posted here and these are my 6th and 7th copies but finally I think I have them done. I need to sand and finish them yet. One is out of mahogany and the other is Oak. They are going to an auction for our Greyhound group. I hope they sell.

Janis

[wood-n-things]

Nicely done. Let us know how much they sell for. If you have time you may get more for them if you include a clock or mini pic frame.

[janisfriesen]

thank you Mike. Oh they will have the mini clocks in them after my finish work. And I have started a list for my next order from you too.

[Crabbyboater]

You can also use small files to get into those small and irregular shaped spaces. They allow you to get rid of some of the fuzzies and correct small sawing errors. Harbor Freight has a whole set for under $10, and they work fine for my purposes. I bought the set with the molded handles, a dollar or two more than the others, but worth it.

[janisfriesen]

My clocks are finished. I have learned alot in making them, now if I can remember it.

[Mick Walker]

Janis, very nice looking clocks.