Delta 40-570

[lliv018]

I puchased a Delta 40-570 scroll saw a couple of years back basically for the wife since she is nevous around the bigger saws I have. I used it once to cut a simple puzzle and it got put away. Now I want to start using it and started reading SSWS again. An article by Steve Malavolta in SSWS issue 18 talks about the parallel cut and how to check it. Well, my scroll saw shifts the blade to the right about 1/32 inch. Does anyone know of an adjustment on the scroll saw to correct this or is this just normal?

I have also looked at purchasing a better scroll saw. I am getting close to retirement and want to start doing this type of work on more of a full time basis. If you had a choice, what would you purchase? I have looked at the Hawk G4 and others brands and the decision is hard one. Thanks Lou!!

[ozarkhillbilly]

Lou, you will get many different responses to this question here, there are many great saws out there! I started out with a Dremel 1680 and now have a Dewalt 788 and love it! A few of my reasons for choosing this saw were, controls all up front for easy access, large throat capacity, variable speed, top feed capabilities and at a great price I felt for all of these features.

Others will be adding their 2 cents I'm sure, take your time, do some research and then make your choice.

Welcome to our little family, hope you enjoy your stay.

[Neal Moore]

Lou...I assume you are saying that your saw is "tracking" to the right while cutting. If so, this is normal and is not a problem with the saw. It's caused by the manufacturing process of the blade which leaves a slight burr on one side of the teeth. The blade is sharper and therefore cuts faster on that side which makes it pull to the right. You will become accustomed to that and will learn to compensate without even thinking about it. Precision ground blades will cut straight and leave a smooth shiny finish but they are a little aggressive for some beginning scrollers.

[Mick Walker]

Lou, I looked long and hard at both the Dewalt 788 and the Delta P-20. Both are under $500.00. I chose the P-20 for several reasons. I had a Delta before and liked the blade clamps. (Some do not care for them). The P-20 is a heavy industrial type saw. The newer Dewalts have had some problems with the tables not being flat. The older models were made in Canada, the newer ones are made in Taiwan. (what isn't made there or China).
Good luck with whichever saw you choose. Mick

[lliv018]

Tracking to the right

No, the entire arm assembly moves to the right when I move the assemble down. Strange!!! Placed a ruler against the back of the blade when the assemble was up. Moved the assemble to the bottom position and the blade is now 1/32" to the right. Still perpendicular to the table. This is not a tracking issue.

[sheltiecarver]

Lou,
Welcome to the group!
You will be able to do a lot with your Delta - probably enough to get you well hooked on scrolling. If you are looking as far up as a G4, it sounds like budget is not a problem. See if you can find a scrolling group near enough to visit. Perhaps you'll find some at a nearby County or District Fair. Other scrollers are usually delighted to let you "drive" their saw a bit, so you can see what you really like. You'll find differences in weight, throat depth, blade holding, dust blowing, and the placement of the controls, among other things. Some saws just won't feel right, and at least one will feel like you've been made for one another. That'll give you a pretty good clue.
In my area there is not a scrolling group, but there is a group that calls themselves "Fine Woodworkers", and there are a number of scrollers in it. Unfortunately for me, I didn't find them until after I had been scrolling a long time. You might find out about such a group through a local hardwood source, or a place that sells lots of tools, like maybe a saw shop or such. Home Depo or Lowes or such will just not do for this - you've gotta find a place where real woodworkers go for their blades, tools ...
As long as you get a machine that uses plain end blades, is easy to change the blades, and you can vary the speed, all the other things are a matter of personal preference.
Good luck in your search. I know that whichever saw you choose, you'll have a lot of fun with it.
Sandy
PS I have an RBI Hawk - and I love it!

[Mick Walker]

Check this out

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...lapsed&sb=5&o=


Lou, check this out. Mick

Adm. if I can't do this just delete it. Mick

[Neal Moore]

You are correct. The blade should not be shifting right or left. It sounds as if the top and bottom blade clamps are not aligned properly or the table is not at 90 degrees to the blade. I'm not familiar with that particular saw but there might be an allen type screw on the top and bottom clamp assemblies that will allow for lateral adjustment so the blade will be truly vertical when clamped and tensioned. Also, first check that the table is at a true 90 degrees to the blade when the arm is in the "full up" position. You can do that with a small square.

[CanadianScroller]

I did have a problem with my blade moving to the side and it turned out to be sawdust caught in the lower blade clamp.
If it is the entire arm there could be an issue with the pivot point.
You could take the pivot bolts out and clean them up.
Follow the manufacturers directions for lubrication.
They use 3 in 1 every 20 hours or so.
I did not see any adjustment procedures in the manual, but if there is some sawdust or pitting at the pivot points this would cause it to be off.
The manual and exploded diagram are available from http://www.dewaltservicenet.com

[lliv018]

Blades moves right

It appears to be the entire arm assembly for both the top and bottom arms. The blade is perpendicular at both the top and bottom of the stroke. Just moved to the right 1/32". I'll look at the pivot points and lubricate the parts then see where it takes me. Thanks for the help!!

[dtoggs]

Blade not tracking

It seems to me,that the lower arm(clamp etc) is not in alignment with the upper. I can't tell you how to fix this,it may mean tinkering with both. Before preforming any adjustments,call scroll saw manufactuer(sp-maker). This shouldn't be too difficult unless the saw was dropped and bent one of the arm assemblies-then it will take an expert to diagnose problem. I'm sure it can be fixed. pw

[minowevie]

Hi Lou. i just wont to wellcome you to are family . I wish i had some grand advice to offer you, but to tell you the truth, I don't have a clue. not knowing anything about your saw. but i do wonder, did something get bent while in storadg. ??? but then you ask about other saws. so what i use is a Hegner , 18 inch throut. vs. with al the bells and ginggales. it has paid for itself over, and over. I personaly think, you will have problems with any saw you have. but some of the high dollor saws are just worth what you pay for them. I tossed around , while looking for my good saw, between the Hawk and the Hegner and the Excalibur which are all great saws. . but if i was to buy a new saw. it would be. the Eclips. sorry can't spell that. again welcome . hope this helped. Evie

[GrayBeard Phil]

Very Long Post.

I haven't fully read all the replies yet, so I hope I am not repeating anything.

Lou:

Your saw is a 14 inch scroll saw about 10 to 15 years old. There are about 3 ways you could be having this sideways problem.

So, I presume you have your parts list, or are able to go to http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/ServiceNet/logon.asp create an account with the new owners of Delta Machinery, and work you way thru the menus to get to the parts list for your saw.

The upper and lower arms are attached, and pivot, on a large special bolt (item 149 on your parts drawing.) This bolt needs to be removed, cleaned very well, re-oiled with SAE-20W or 30W non-detergent oil. What I suspect is that either a) these bolts have not been removed and cleaned every 20 to 25 hours of operation or after 60 days of non-use time, AND / OR the bolts have worked themselves loose. The inside of the bearing housing in the arms also needs to have all the 'gunk' removed.

Aside: 3-in-1 oil in the Blue Can (don't use the red label can for this job) which states it is 3-in-1 Oil for Electric motors, is just SAE-20W non-detergent oil. You can get this oil cheaper in quart size, but the blue label 3-in-1 will last for years. Red can will increase the build up of 'gunk'.

Just remember, be sure to ID which bolt came from top and bottom. (Finger nail polish on one bolt?) Also there is a spring washer and a flat washer, make a note of the assembly as to which washer goes against the arm. These bolts act as a brass pivot bearing for the arms movement. On the back of the arms, there is a wear plate against the housing that needs to be cleaned once and awhile. But you need to undo the small hex head bolts that attach the motor to the two sealed ball bearings to remove the Arms from the saw housing.

When re-installing the arms and the two pivot bearings, be aware the pivot bearing bolts are threaded into the cast-iron metal housing. The metal housing is prone to having the threads stripped out if you apply too much torque to the bolts when you re-assemble. You want the bolts tight, but not like the bolts on the head of an auto engine. Again, it is very easy to mis thread these bolts and strip out the threading in the soft iron housing. Ease the two bolts home and make sure the threading is easy and not binding.

Speaking of the motor, that is another place that you sideways movement could be occurring. You need to remove the arms, and check that the motor mounting is secure, and the motor shaft is not bent in any way.

In the very back of the saw, there is a special link rod that connects the upper and lower arms. This rod should be 'wobble' free with no blade installed. a drop of oil per year in the two attachments points won't hurt.

The last cause is the worst, a bent arm. There is no recovery from that. Go look for a new saw.

BTW: These saw were some of the last models where the entire arms move up and down. Modern designs have only a few inches of the arms in the front moving the blade up and down. This reduces the mass of metal that must be moved, and reduces the vibration. Take a close look a DeWalt 788 if you get a chance.

Hope this helps

Phil

PS Since you are in the neighborhood, you could go ahead and replace the two small sealed bearing the connect the motor to the lower arm. Local Bearing retail store should have them for about $20.00 each. usually less. Also you will want to replace the small rubber grommet near the blade tension bolt, part # 1343631 should cost about one dollar from Delta, err I mean DeWalt Service parts.