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  • another project another question(s)....

    this from wildwooddesigns, side of victorian serving tray
    #2 skip blade,3/4 pine.

    This side is about 12 " long.I reduced the drawing to play.

    Lets see where did i have problems....(everywhere )

    Its supposed to be birds and flowers, small piece broke of left flower while sanding, actually i like it better , mabey ill break the other side..lol

    Had to nibble out most, not all, of the sharp corners, im improving two weeks ago it would have been ALL of them.


    Question
    What to use to sand and clean out the little places inside, i was thinking stealing my wifes nail files....

    Im not sure 3/4 pine is the best thing to learn with. Mabey 1/2 would be better. Also the cut lines are not very clean for small pieces, hard wood might be better ?

    thanks....pete
    Attached Files
    Pete Ripaldi

    ---------------------------------
    "Insert Clever Tag Line Here..."

  • #2
    Originally posted by pete00
    this from wildwooddesigns, side of victorian serving tray
    #2 skip blade,3/4 pine.

    This side is about 12 " long.I reduced the drawing to play.

    Lets see where did i have problems....(everywhere )

    Its supposed to be birds and flowers, small piece broke of left flower while sanding, actually i like it better , mabey ill break the other side..lol

    Had to nibble out most, not all, of the sharp corners, im improving two weeks ago it would have been ALL of them.


    Question
    What to use to sand and clean out the little places inside, i was thinking stealing my wifes nail files....

    Im not sure 3/4 pine is the best thing to learn with. Mabey 1/2 would be better. Also the cut lines are not very clean for small pieces, hard wood might be better ?

    thanks....pete
    Good questions!
    The nail file or emery boards work well!
    Try sanding the wood before you start.
    Use a sharp new blade, preferably one with reverse teeth. They cut on the up action and eliminate tear out or feathering on the bottom.
    The cut itself looks quite good.
    You may want to try 1/2 Baltic Birch ply. The ply has a very consistent density and is a joy to cut.
    CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
    "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
    Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

    Comment


    • #3
      Hay Pete. that looks pretty. to your sanding quistion. what i do is I cut emeryboards in long skinny pieces. they are finguer nail files. but the cardboard kind. they make great sanding things. i also use needle files. I prefer the bent end ones. but have the flat ones too. you can get cheap ones a harbor frieght. Like Carl says, sanding before you start cutting your project helps too. and the revers tooth blades. are great. your doing good. your friend Evie

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Pete,

        Looks like we will be learning this art together. Nice piece. I've been learning on 3/4" pine also because I had scraps laying around. I did order some BB plywood from Sloan's and am anxious to give that a shot. I've read that this type of plywood, besides finnish birch, is about the only type of plywood good for scrolling. On my first 2 projects I just used 120 grit sandpaper cut and folded over to get into those tight places. If you can clamp the piece down you can run the sandpaper thru the cut and work it back and forth from each side thereby keeping pressure on the edges that need the sanding. There again, it's what I had laying around.

        Keep up the good work and we'll see who reaches pro status first.

        Mike
        Mike

        Making sawdust with a Dremel 1680.
        www.picturetrail.com/naturephotos

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by scrollsaw newbie
          Hi Pete,

          we'll see who reaches pro status first.

          Mike

          oh great....... just what i need more pressure...

          although i guess thats a reason for another rum and coke
          thank yew........
          Pete Ripaldi

          ---------------------------------
          "Insert Clever Tag Line Here..."

          Comment


          • #6
            Pete,
            I think your project looks just fine - you guys are both expecting perfection way too soon, and in a wood that is not that easy (although it is readily available and affordable!) The kinds of pine we have in the US (and actually all the "softwoods" available at the DIY stores) are just not the best for fine work. The soft and hard places where the grain changes from summer to winter makes for a really hard time following the pattern lines. If you will just think of your pine projects as "rustic" and treat them to enhance that aspect, I think you will be pleased enough.
            When you are ready to do more complex stuff, try some hardwoods - I happen to like poplar because it is easy to cut and usually pretty, but birch, aspen, walnut, cherry (yummmm!) and lots of the others will be all be satisfying for really detailed stuff.
            And, of course, as has been mentioned, the baltic birch plywood is terrific.
            Let off the pressure, and enjoy yourself. None of us actually learned in a few weeks.
            Just have some fun, and the other stuff will come.
            Sandy

            Comment


            • #7
              3/4 pine is a poor choice to learn on. There is to many variables in the grain, from hard rings to soft, almost pithy parts. I suggest getting some baltic birch plywood to scroll on , and a little bit of good hardwood, walnut is nice, as is red oak and cherry (although cherry burns easily).All plywoods arent created equal. Baltic birch has more thinner layers then regular plywood, and there are no voids on the inner layers, so it scrolls evenly all the time, unlike the pine boards, where the blade tends to want to dive into the path of the least resistance, that being the softer parts of the grain. Dale
              Dale w/ yella saws

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