Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

tape problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • tape problem

    I tried my hand at a serious bit of work today and everything went fine until I tired to separate the 2 pieces of wood. I used double sided tape as the stated in the instructions, but I guess I used to much. the 1/8th inch board cracked as I separated it from the 1/4 inch base .

    Is there a trick to this I don't know yet? My real worry was that the two pieces would shift as I was cutting, so I used enough tape to completely cover the lower board and stuck the upper board to it.

    Any recommendations on types of tape to use and how much?

  • #2
    tape problem

    Hi Keith,
    You didn't say what type of double sided of tape you're using. I always use double sided masking tape, available from uline.com or any golf proshop. It's the same kind of tape us golfers use to regrip our clubs. Just a word of caution.... only small pieces of the tape are needed, such as an inch long or less, and only a few pieces are needed to hold the wood together. If you run into the separation problem again try brushing a bit of acytone along the edge. It will run down between the wood and it will separate easily without wrecking your project.
    Hope this helps,
    Scrollergirl

    Comment


    • #3
      Just as Scro. said- try acitone - or lighter fluid same thing . Personally I use brads to hold my work together one on each corner then one or two somewhere in the waste of my work -I cut these last- if there are any warped places in your board there would be a brad there also. these all come loose easy when I am ready- I just pry the edges a tad and then I reuse them on another project. unless there isn't any places that you have brads--in that case is where the couple of inner brads would be holding and they will still stay on last cut- just cut around them- the work will then seperate easy.
      Sharon

      Comment


      • #4
        I don't care for double sided tape for the very reason you said.

        There are some alternate ideas, like Sharon uses brads.
        You can use a hot gluegun and tack the outside edges together
        I use masking tape all along the outside edges.
        You can also spray temporary adhesive to both sides of a piece of paper, stack your wood together like frozen hamburgers between the sheets. It will peel apart pretty easy.
        If you use painters tape it is semi transparent and you can even see lines through it.

        If the edges are secure, the center shouldn't bee too much of a problem, depending on how fine the cuts are.
        CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
        "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
        Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

        Comment


        • #5
          I dont use two-sided tape for any fretwork. Its always a bad thing when it comes to seperation time, and you now know Im talking about. Instead, as some others mentioned, use making tape around the edges to hold the stack together. If you arent trusting of the tape, use a couple brads in waste areas. Save the two sided tape for somthing else. Dale
          Dale w/ yella saws

          Comment


          • #6
            The tape is made by Duct-Tape.

            I'll try some of the other ideas, heck ANYTHING has to be better than the tape.

            Comment


            • #7
              To help me with my 'seperation anxity' problem I first use spring-clamps to secure the pieces of wood tightly and, then use a cheap brand (Ace Hardware) of masking tape wraped tightly around the edges and overlap a little onto the top and bottom. Then remove the clamps. A cheap brand of tape usually has less adhesive tack which is a good thing. I've also used cheap blue painters tape with good result.

              Comment


              • #8
                Part of the problem is that the bond of most adhesives increases over time--that is why the colored painters' tape is so important. If you are concerned that tape you plan on using is going to be too strong, press it against anothe piece of wood a couple times--that removes most of the adhesive.

                Sam Willcox suggests using the 2 sided tape that scrapbookers use. I plan on trying that with my next project, so I'll let you know how that works for me. It might be that the Duct tape brand is just TOO sticky!

                Bob
                www.GrobetUSA.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  It is good to remember that Duct Tape is like the "Force"

                  It has a "light" side and a "dark" side, and it holds the universe together.

                  Use it wisely my young padawan!
                  CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                  "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                  Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Like Carl, I use temporary spray adhesive but I just spray it directly onto the pieces of wood that are to be stacked.

                    Gill
                    There is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted.
                    (Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tape Problem

                      I have found that regular box packing tape around the outer edges of the wood works great for me and removes easily and leaves no glue residue.
                      Keep the dust coming..
                      www.wolfwoodworking.ca

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        tape

                        I often just use hot glue on the outside edges, it seems to work for me. Live long and prosper, young Jedi. Bob
                        Be the good,
                        you want to see in the world...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yes I like using brads too. I nail with my work on a metal plate.
                          Cheers. Teresa .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I get really cheap masking tape and wrap the whole stack in it. That way I have no problem with flopping patterns because I can glue the pattern right to the stack with as much glue as I like. If it starts to burn on the tight corners I wrap it again with clear packing tape. If there is a plobem when I take the tape off I let it soak for a few minutes in MS or paint thinner. Try it , you will like it
                            Last edited by ChuckD; 03-13-2006, 06:28 PM.
                            Chuck D


                            When a work lifts your spirits and inspires bold and noble thoughts in you, do not look for any other standard to judge by: the work is good, the product of a master craftsman.
                            Jean De La Bruyere...

                            l
                            Hegner 18, Delta p-20, Griz 14 inch Band saw

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hot glue

                              It's hot glue around the edges for me. Kinda like a spot weld in a very few places.

                              -Bill
                              -Bill

                              My saw is a DeWalt788 Measure twice; cut once; count fingers after cut

                              Comment

                              Unconfigured Ad Widget

                              Collapse

                              Latest Topics

                              Collapse

                              • NC Scroller
                                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                                by NC Scroller
                                My process is a bit different. Since I am using heat shrink bags when you seal the open end you trap a lot of air in them. When you start to heat the bag to shrink it you create a large bubble. I continue to heat the bag until it does pop a hole. I have been doing this for years. The shrink wrap...
                                Today, 07:42 AM
                              • will8989
                                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                                by will8989
                                None Linda. You need to find the right heat temp so it shrinks but doesn’t put a hole in the wrap but the tape doesn’t shrink or tear.
                                Today, 12:20 AM
                              • Linda In Phoenix
                                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                                by Linda In Phoenix
                                What thickness of film seems to work the best for puzzles?
                                The bags seem easier on the surface.
                                But the film seems like it is more versatile on size variations.
                                Yesterday, 03:24 PM
                              • will8989
                                Reply to Bruce, the one on probation
                                by will8989
                                Regulations are 150 square feet, this will be 144 square feet so we are good. He’s making it that size Since the sheets are 4’ wide. And the Shelves need to be 4” above my head!! It will be very specific.
                                Yesterday, 10:32 AM
                              • Sandy Oaks
                                Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                                by Sandy Oaks
                                As a framer, we have a shrinker wrapper at ArtCrafters. Very simple. Film on a roller, sealer attached, just roll off enough film, seal the film, insert object, seal other end and shrink with a heat gum. We also use Uline as a source. Not sure where our unit can from as it was with the shop when...
                                Yesterday, 09:46 AM
                              Working...
                              X