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Q's: Building Gill's Sandbox!

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  • Q's: Building Gill's Sandbox!

    Hi Friends,

    I’ve decided to build the sandbox for my Dremel 1680. (FYI, the Dremel technician told me the stand will hold 200 pounds safely, so sandbox is fine on the Dremel 16500 stand.)

    Being limited on tools and experience, I’ve chosen to build the pattern Gill contributed rather than the more difficult one in the “Popular Mechanics Fundamentals for SS” book. I have a few questions before I get started:

    1. The stand bundled with the Dremel, assembled, leveled, and squared up tight, results in having a slight discrepancy in the edges around the top of the stand overall. The rectangular part the saw bolts to recesses slightly (perhaps 1/8”) below the top edges of each of the four legs that are all bolted onto that top rectangular section. If you’re bolting the saw directly onto the stand, this is no problem as the saw fits on in such a say that the leg-edges rising above the rectangle don’t touch the saw or interfere with a good snug fit. BUT…
    2. If I place the sandbox at Gill’s plans dimensions, it will extend over the sides and ends, therefore will rest on those top edges of the legs, rather than fitting down inside the leg edges, therefore resting firmly on the rectangle. But if I make the box smaller to just snug-fit right into the very shallow corners created by the leg-edges, then once the ¾” ends and sides are on, the carriage-bolt holes will be VERY close to the side/end boards, as the edges of the saw’s bolt-on holes in the stand are only 1-1/8” from the edges of the stand. So there would only be about 3/8” from the edge of the side/end boards to the carriage-bolt holes. The “ribs” would need to be flush up to the sides and ends.
    - Should I adapt the pattern smaller so that it fits snugly within the “frame” created by the leg-edges, which will also result in the above as well as in a loss of area, therefore loss of mass and desired weight, OR…
    - Should I go ahead and make it full-scale to the pattern’s measurements, and let it rest on those slightly elevated leg edges, letting the weight and the tightened carriage bolts do the securing – i.e, would it hold it securely enough or could it actually contribute to some further/other vibration?

    3. For attaching the sides and ends to the bottom piece what kind/size of wood screws should I use if I’m working with ¾” plywood? Assuming I use both glue AND screws.
    4. In reading the measurements, which are pretty blurry once the pattern is slightly enlarged from the .jpg photo, am I correct here:
    - Carriage bolts are 7/8” diameter?
    - Are the “ribs” simply glued in place on the bottom and the lid, then drilled through to screw the carriage bolts through the ribs (I assume for strength and stability)?

    Sorry for such a long post, and hope it’s not confusing. A drawing would be helpful (but not if it’s MY drawing… oh, brother… it’s really awful…) And sorry for so many questions!

    But thanks so much,


  • #2
    sand box saw weight-vibration damper

    Ann when i assembled my stand i didnt read the instructions, as most times you spend much to much time hunting a special bolt they didnt ship..

    this box plan may have to be modified to fit your stand, i doubt the pattern gill posted was for a dremel scrollsaw, use it as a general guide, for heigth the stand will dictate what will fit in it.

    back to the stand you assembled,

    the center braces in my stand that run in the same direction as the floor, the lip is on top,

    the top end frame where the saw bolts on, i put on the outside of legs which made it the tallest, where you bolt the saw down,

    if you flip the supports like mine with the lips on top, the building of this box will be easily accomplished without henderence of the bolts as they will be under the lip on the support.
    Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster


    • #3
      Thanks Thomp, for your reply.

      I checked my stand, instructions, etc, to see if I'd erred or if it could be done differently. I had it assembled correctly and the design won't allow any alteration. When I finish my neighbour's step-up box then I'll get going on the sandbox. I'll experiment along and see what happens.

      Thanks again for your input!



      • #4
        Carriage bolts

        Ann...I really don't think you want 7/8 inch diameter carriage bolts. That's a very large bolt!!!! Maybe your plans refer to a carriage bolt with a 7/8 inch head??? I haven't seen the plans but that just doesn't sound right
        If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!


        • #5
          Thanks Neal! 7/8" carriage bolts sounded impossible to me, but I can't read the blurry plans well enough; the fractions are very small and fuzzy. I figured 5/8" was also crazy, so have arrived at a conclusion that it must say 3/8" but is far from clear. (It's a .jpg file, and not real clear, worse when you blow it up.) I'm going to try the 3/8" one and see how it goes.

          Thanks again,



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