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Definitive Blade Choice?

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  • Definitive Blade Choice?

    After much research and opinion gathering I believe I've come to a conclusion on blade type. It seems to me that all boils down to 1 blade to have and use primarily. That is the standard reverse tooth blades. No double teeth, 2 way cut, crown tooth, dbl. w/reverse etc. Just a plain ole skip tooth reverse blade. 1 blade fits all except for the occasional spiral need but other than that ole faithful fits all.
    Question is, am I right in my conclusion? I don't want to spend alot of time and money on all the various blades when all I need is 1 in the correct size for my wood.
    Confuscious says, "The cautious seldom err".
    Confuscious didn't own a scrollsaw either.

  • #2
    If you're only doing flats, you might get along with reverse blades only. I use a crown tooth when I'm doing 3d because there is more than one underside. In other words, if I cut a hole from one side of the block and then flip it and cut across that hole, I'm making a thin piece that's floating above where the reverse teeth can reach it. Look at my avatar for an example.

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    • #3
      Capt, don't see how you can get the blade choice down to one blade. There are too many variables. Wood type, wood thickness, how many layers when stack cutting, the design you are cutting and probably many more that don't come to mind right now. I have at least a dozen different blades that I use. Mick.
      Mick, - Delta P-20

      A smile is a small curve that straightens everything out.

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      • #4
        I'm like Mick, I use many different sizes of flat blades.

        Bob
        Delta P-20 & Q-3

        I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me!

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        • #5
          Captain,
          While it seems like many of the blades are awfully alike, and that you should be able to get good enough results using an "all purpose" blade, I just don't think there is any such blade. If you plan to cut simple and complex shapes from varied species and thicknesses of woods, as well as some plywoods and maybe even some other things like corian or plastics or metals or paper and cardboard, you will find that you may need to expand your arsenal. I use 5's and 7's and a few 9's on thicker woods, mostly reverse tooth, but also crown tooth in the 7's for compound cutting. I also have some 2's, and I think I will order some 2/0's for the tiny puzzles such as Carter does (might even need an 8/0), and when I get good enough, I will try some of Jeff Zafino's neat patterns with some of Mike's new spirals.
          If, on the other hand, you plan to cut, for instance, only relatively simple patterns in only one thickness of one kind of wood, you will probably get along very well with one blade type & size.
          Let us know what you decide, and how your decision works out.
          Sandy

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          • #6
            I'm beginning to feel like you. I've cut everything from simple patterns to 1000+ cut portraits to clocks to 2" woods. I've tried all kinds of blades but I keep coming back to the basic skip-reverse tooth in various sizes. I can't control spirals well enough to do intricate portraits nor can I cut as fast with them as with a #3 reverse tooth (stack of (5) or (6) 1/8" bb). I've tried double tooth, crown tooth, 2-way cut and just haven't found them to help me in any way with anything I've cut. I haven't cut corian or metal on the scrollsaw yet so I can't comment on those.

            Kevin
            Kevin
            Scrollsaw Patterns Online
            Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671

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            • #7
              Bear in mind that I'm not refering to only 1 size blade but rather only 1 type. I know the sizes will vary according to wood thickness, and I'm only talking about cutting wood and not plastics, acrylic etc., like #2/0 for 1/8" stuff and #5 for 3/4". It just seems to me that all I need is various sizes in to a skip tooth / reverse blade. Granted I'm by far not an expert and not talking about doing portraits or the advanced designs. I'm doing basic hardwood designs. I ordered some blades from Mikes Woodshop and told him what I was doing and he suggested that I would probably find that I'll enjoy the skip/reverse better as it would give more control as opposed to the dbl tooth and the ?? that I got. Just throwing this out there to see what ya'll think.
              Confuscious says, "The cautious seldom err".
              Confuscious didn't own a scrollsaw either.

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              • #8
                All good points!
                You will find a level of comfort with certain blades, and not all of us use the same blade.
                It is pointless to use a reverse tooth blade when compound cutting.
                Not that it won't work, you just won't notice the lack of fuzz on the piece you are discarding.
                Try all the blades you can and keep in mind what each style of blade will do. You may find you need control on a project that aggressive nature of a skip tooth may elude you.
                You may need an aggressive cut because of the hardness of the wood.
                These are all reasons to chose different blades.
                If you find you are cutting a lot of similar projects out of similar materials, then one style of blade could well suit your needs.
                CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

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                • #9
                  Carl is 100% right of not using blades with reverse teeth.
                  One of the best compound pattern designers, Diana Thompson, likes to use the FD-Polar # 5 and 7.
                  Mike M
                  SD Mike

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