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The words I hate the most

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  • The words I hate the most

    When I read "wood or your choice" or the "blade of choice" in an article, I would really appreciated knowing at least what the sample is made of and what other woods may work.

    I know that every one likes certain types of blades but being a newbie I would like to know what the author uses.

    Just my 2 cents

    Don
    Don McFarland ​Member - Durham Woodworking Club http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com/

  • #2
    Don,
    Almost any wood, any blade will work for almost anything. As you progress you'll find what works for one doesn't always work for everyone. Best to find your comfort zone and keep pushing what you perceive as limits because there really aren't any. Just have fun and enjoy the work. The absolute worst that can happen is winning the most beautiful firewood contest.
    Don't be afraid to tackle anything. Rob
    May the wind at you back .....
    Not be from Lunch.

    Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive.

    Beauty is in the eye of the BEERHOLDER

    Visit My Gallery

    Oily's Gallery

    http://www.picturetrail.com/oily11

    Comment


    • #3
      One of the first "complex" projects I did was shown in the magazine in 1/4" cherry. Since I did not have access to/funding for cherry, I opted for oak and had I known what I was doing on angle cut, the project would have turned good. The wood had no effect on the project--only my shortcomings in geometry.

      Oily may use one blade for 1/2" poplar, while I will use another and yet another cutter will have a third opinion on the same pattern and material. You WILL be able to figure it out after a few tries, as long as you are willing to accept a few mistakes and know that some pieces will just not be show piece perfect.

      Patience and practice are the two biggest keys to enjoying scroll sawing. It's only a mistake if you make it the third time!
      Jim
      When looking at the clock at work--the correct time is:
      Too early to leave, too late to call in.

      Comment


      • #4
        Speaking from the other side of the fence, it's often a judgment call as to how specific an author wants to be about choice of wood, blade, sanders, etc., since people tend to have their favorites, and availability of wood varies.

        I always indicate the wood I've used for a project, and generally suggest blade sizes/types. That at least gives the reader some idea of what to use, if they're not certain. In my new box book, in the introduction, I give clear alternatives in case the suggested wood is not available--wood that is similar in appearance, or in workability, and how to use expensive wood more economically.

        But, as has been said, experience is the best teacher. You'll learn your personal preferences, and what works with your machine. You can't go wrong with tried and true favorites like poplar, especially when starting out.

        Enjoy the ride!
        Carole

        Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Don,
          Oily, Jim and Carole pretty much have said it all.
          Since I have been doing a lot of test cutting for the magazine I have found that I tend to use a much smaller blade than what the designer and final article typically recommend. That is just my preference for the way I like to cut. As the others have stated you will find your comfort zone. Try different blades, I tried most brands and have now settled on my favorites that “work for me”
          Rolf
          RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
          Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
          Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
          And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

          Comment


          • #6
            In the past, we tried not to recommend a specific wood if the project didn't actively require that wood; some authors were suggesting expensive wood, and I'd be getting calls from people asking me if they "HAD" to use that wood. So, we kind of went to the opposite extreme and didn't provide any recommendations. And, we've found that was equally unfair to the readers.

            In the past few issues, we've made it a point to say what wood the author is using, but also include a disclaimer that suggests that you can use whatever blades or woods you want based on your own inventory and experience.

            It's funny, because I know Rolf uses a lot of 2/0 blades, but, personally, 2/0 blades are my "recipe killer." Shannon Flowers talked in the past about recipe killers, which are techniques or ingredients in a recipe that make a person flat-out decide not to do that recipe. For Shannon, beaten egg whites are a recipe killer. If the recipe calls for beaten egg whites, she'll find another recipe.

            For me, if I need to use 2/0 blades to cut something, I'll find another project. I know, intellectually, that if I am careful, adjust the tension properly, and don't apply too much pressure, 2/0 blades really don't break that much more often than the #1 blades that I reach for first. But...I feel 2/0 blades break more often, and it's a viscous cycle for me.

            So..yes, I can see why you hate those words. And we're trying to work around that in our articles.

            Best Regards,
            Bob Duncan
            Technical Editor
            www.GrobetUSA.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for our input.

              The post was only a suggestion for the book as being a newbie I would just like to know were to start or what the experts used. I hope some day that mine will looks as good.

              Finding your comfort zone and knowing what looks good is what woodworking is all about. I do a lot of wood turning and finding the shape of the bowl and which type of wood works is part of the fun.

              Don
              Don McFarland ​Member - Durham Woodworking Club http://www.durhamwoodworkingclub.com/

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Don in Brooklin On View Post
                Thanks for our input.

                The post was only a suggestion for the book as being a newbie I would just like to know were to start or what the experts used. I hope some day that mine will looks as good.

                Finding your comfort zone and knowing what looks good is what woodworking is all about. I do a lot of wood turning and finding the shape of the bowl and which type of wood works is part of the fun.

                Don
                There ya go Don, you're on the right track. Keep cuttin'
                May the wind at you back .....
                Not be from Lunch.

                Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive.

                Beauty is in the eye of the BEERHOLDER

                Visit My Gallery

                Oily's Gallery

                http://www.picturetrail.com/oily11

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by BobD View Post
                  In the past, we tried not to recommend a specific wood if the project didn't actively require that wood; some authors were suggesting expensive wood, and I'd be getting calls from people asking me if they "HAD" to use that wood. So, we kind of went to the opposite extreme and didn't provide any recommendations. And, we've found that was equally unfair to the readers.

                  In the past few issues, we've made it a point to say what wood the author is using, but also include a disclaimer that suggests that you can use whatever blades or woods you want based on your own inventory and experience.

                  It's funny, because I know Rolf uses a lot of 2/0 blades, but, personally, 2/0 blades are my "recipe killer." Shannon Flowers talked in the past about recipe killers, which are techniques or ingredients in a recipe that make a person flat-out decide not to do that recipe. For Shannon, beaten egg whites are a recipe killer. If the recipe calls for beaten egg whites, she'll find another recipe.

                  For me, if I need to use 2/0 blades to cut something, I'll find another project. I know, intellectually, that if I am careful, adjust the tension properly, and don't apply too much pressure, 2/0 blades really don't break that much more often than the #1 blades that I reach for first. But...I feel 2/0 blades break more often, and it's a viscous cycle for me.

                  So..yes, I can see why you hate those words. And we're trying to work around that in our articles.

                  Best Regards,
                  Bob Duncan
                  Technical Editor
                  I had to chuckle Bob. I can't drive a 2/0 to save my life either. I cut 1/2" cherry for four hours yesterday with 2 FDUR #1blades. The first one just happened to be in the saw when I started. If you were to ask what I would recommend for that piece I would say FDUR #3 or #5 but the #1 worked great and up to speed.
                  I do almost exclusively use FDUR's from Mike.
                  May the wind at you back .....
                  Not be from Lunch.

                  Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive.

                  Beauty is in the eye of the BEERHOLDER

                  Visit My Gallery

                  Oily's Gallery

                  http://www.picturetrail.com/oily11

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Bob,
                    I like your approach and I have always looked at patterns and the magazine as suggestions the rest is up to us. I always tell our club members that you can use cheap pine and stains to make some impressive intarsia or segmentation. Now I will throw some gas on the fire (just for kicks) I use the Olson 2/0 and very rarely break a blade, usually only when I push it beyond dull. The Olson 2/0 is (Mike correct me if i'm wrong) similar to FD 1 . I have never been able to follow a line with the FD 2/0. No problems with the #1. We learn to compensate for the quirks of the blades that we use.
                    Rolf
                    RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                    Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                    Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                    And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think you're very much on the right track, Bob. But make that disclaimer in VERY BIG LETTERS! I'm aware that many readers seem to think they have to use EXACTLY the same wood as the designer used in a project. I've never been sure why. I suppose they want it to look the same. But wood availability varies a great deal and that just isn't a realistic way to think. If people are really unsure what woods they should use, this forum is a great place to come and ask!

                      I would suggest the same might apply to blades. Blade of choice (Janette used a #7) might be the way to go. Mind you, just because Janette uses a #7 sure doesn't mean I will! But then I'm not a newbie. Newbies are looking for lots of information and it's not realistic to include tons of information with every pattern that appears in the magazine. Newbies need books for beginners, several books is best. They'll find after awhile that they're straying from what the books suggest and well they should! I started with Judy Gale Roberts' books, which are fabulous, but I don't use much cedar. But those books gave me a great place to start. And I wish I'd had this forum when I started. There's more info here than in many, many books. Newbies would do well to make use of it. I sure do!

                      Lou
                      www.woodbylouise.ca

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Rolf,
                        You can not compare the number of a blade. You have to check what the measurments are like width and thickness.
                        FD Mike
                        SD Mike

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi Lou,
                          We include this in the materials list of every article:

                          The author used these products for the project. Substitute your choice of brands, tools, and materials as desired.

                          Best Regards,
                          Bob Duncan
                          Technical Editor
                          www.GrobetUSA.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Bob, just as long as the instructions don't call for beating up egg whites.
                            Carole

                            Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Just remember..You've got to break a few eggs to make an omlet...hehehe

                              Myself, I'm partial to #5 blades, in different configurations. Right now my favorites are FD penguin Silver, and Penguin Silver Reverse.
                              I'll break down to a #2 when the detail is really small though.
                              Jim

                              The limits of the imagination are imaginary.
                              No task is too tedious for Art.
                              Rock and Scroll

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