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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    You may want to ask your local butcher or meat cutter about sharpening your knives. Many of them do this on the side to earn extra money.
    Cheers
    Rick

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    Jim Dandy, swiss made gouge? Check and see if there are grinding marks on the inside surface.Scratches running lenght of the blade. These marks are in the cutting edge,no amount of sharpening removes them.You have to either polish out ,or do a double bevel to lower the cutting edge below the depth of the scratches.I am not too happy with the edge holding ability of the Swiss made tools.I just had a 5/8 #11 lose the edge for the third time in Basswood! If it were cherry,oak ,or bogwood,you know that's something else.So buy tools,your LOCAL shop,look incannel for scratches,if you can feel them by drawing fingernail across,put the little thing back,YOU ARE PAYING FOR QUALITY,NOT A WORD,cordially Nad

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  • santosdepalo
    replied
    Re: sharpening

    Could you please provide me with his information?
    Ohio is definetly closer to PA than Colorado

    thank you all for the suggestions..
    D!

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    Richard (Dic_) Belcher of Belcher Carving Supplies, LLC in Ohio is where I send everything I can't sharpen (I HATE sharpening VTOOLS). If I remember right, he charges about $1.50 to $2 each plus shipping, but if I mail them on Monday, I usually have them back by the following Monday. If he's closer to you and you want his address and phone number, let me know and I'll dig it out.
    Donna T

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  • Callynne
    replied
    Re: sharpening

    Doel, Rick at Little Shaver's sharpens knives, his phone number is 206-767-7421. His website is www.littleshavers.com and his e-mail address is [email protected].
    I haven't had him sharpen anything for me as I do my own sharpening but he's alway been very helpful with everything else, so I'd recommend him highly for this also! Good luck! Callynne

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  • whittlin
    replied
    Re: sharpening

    santosdepalo -
    I know mountainwoodcarvers.com will sharpen knives for around $1.00 (I don't remember the exact price). I guess the drawback would be you have to pay for shipping unless you live in Colorado.

    Hope this helps.

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  • santosdepalo
    replied
    Re: sharpening

    Do you guys know how I can find information on places to take my knives for sharpening?
    I do not like doing it :'(

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    i have the oar sharpening guide and find it very useful for gouges and V tools. it lets me keep the same angle all the way through the stroke.

    papa

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    Try handamerican.com for blade sharpening and honing

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    Has anyone tried the OAR sharpening guide from Woodcraft?

    Is it worth the money?

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  • Callynne
    replied
    Re: sharpening

    Jim, when I have nicked blades (on knives or gouges) I haven't had any luck just stropping them, they have to be 'stoned' or in the case of just small nicks 'sanded'.
    As far as changing bevels if I've ever done it, it would certainly be by accident!! I just follow the shape of the tool I'm sharpening.
    The sand paper is one great method, I don't go back to the stone unless I have really messed something up (like taking the point off a knife, now that's a real bummer!!).
    If you have to look under a magnifying glass to see the nicks I would think the sandpaper method would solve your problem. Just do it a couple times and then strop as usual. My 'easy' method for checking for nicks is to 'gently' run my thumbnail over the blade, sort of like fingernails on a chalk board but it works for me. Callynne

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    I agree with Cliff there are many ways to sharpen a knife or chisel and ask 20 different carvers and you will get 20 different ways. I struggled with sharpening for years and finally I have got to where I can sharpen quite well. The key is practice. Take all the instruction you recieve and try it on some cheap tools when you can sharpen those reasonably well then progress to your better tools believe me its all practice and the key is not to burn the cutting edge. If you do then grind it down and start again.
    Good luck and let us know how you make out.
    Colin
    http://www.geocities.com/partridge_ch

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    Look up 'scary sharp' on google...I use that method, using finer and finer grits of sandpaper and am happy with the results..end up with 2000 grit and it polishes the blade!

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    You might try this, before going and doing a regrind. Take that gouge and cut a deep groove (all the way to the edge) in a hardwood block. Then glue a piece of fairly thin leather into the groove. Add a bit of your stropping element to the leather and strop the gouge in the groove. This will strop all the bevel on the gouge at the same time, and may solve your problem.

    If you don't have, or can't find any leather, just load the wood in the groove with the stropping medium and use the groove itself to do the stropping. Either way should work.

    Al

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: sharpening

    While using a gouge recently I noticed it was not as sharp as it was before. I have stropped it using yellowstone but the edge appears ragged under a magnifying glass.

    Is this the time to go back to the stone for some honing?

    Should I grind the edge perpendicular to the stone first in an effort to remove the ragged edge or will the honing take care of it?

    This is a pfeil gouge and I hate to mess up the bevel and edge with my sharpening skills?

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