Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Questions for Carole Rothman

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #76
    Rob, use the last piece of wood that would normally be the base. Turn it upside down so that the smaller face is on top. If you sand down that face, as the wood thins the diameter will increase. At some point, the diameter will be large enough to match the diameter of the lowest ring.

    Best tool is a belt sander in the horizontal position. draw guide marks around the circumference to get it even. It's messy, but works well.
    Carole

    Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

    Comment


    • #77
      I have a question,,,,, When you drill the angle hole for a bowl,, How long are the bits you use? I found an angle guide for Dremel and it should be here on Tuesday. Going to give that a try as I have failed to get the right angle no matter if I had a shop made guide or not. I got two nice bowls done, but that one simple bowl pattern the sides don't want to match up. I think it is my angle drilling isn't quite right. The table tilt on my drill press doesn't work and when I saw that angle guide for the Dremel tool, I jumped at it. After all it was under $20.00 so we'll see how that will work out. I hope it will. But my drill bits won't go all the way through the wood at an angle. Thanks in advance and than you for the great books you put out. Fay
      Have a great day, Fay.

      Comment


      • #78
        Fay, I use a short drill bit and the shop made angle guide. I use an awl to mark the drill point so the bit won't slip, line up the bit with the angle guide, and start drilling the hole. When I reach the end of the bit, which is pretty soon, I just remove the angle guide and keep on drilling until I'm through the wood.

        The angle of the hole has already been established by the start of the drilling so you don't really need a guide at that point. Those bits are so small that if they were longer, they would just bend and lose the angle.
        Carole

        Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

        Comment


        • #79
          Thanks Carole. Will give that a try. I think a long bit would break at a certain point. I broke one that goes to my Seyco mini drill for entry holes. I don't like those bits as they bend too easily. Grrrrr.... Thanks again Fay
          Have a great day, Fay.

          Comment


          • #80
            Fay

            What attachment did you find? I didn't know Dremel made one. Do you know the Dremel number?
            Tim

            In God we trust, all others must pay cash!

            I don't want no bargains, they always cost me more money.

            Comment


            • #81
              I'll get the link for you and post it here. It is made for rotary tools and is mostly used to fix grouting on tiles but it can be used for drilling angles. Going to give it a try as I'm left handed and a clutz at that. Grrr... Let me get the link...
              Have a great day, Fay.

              Comment


              • #82
                Well I was not able to edit my post but try this link. I hope it works and with a picture of it... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
                Have a great day, Fay.

                Comment


                • #83
                  If someone has great passion for what they do, it is not considered work

                  Jeff Robinson
                  Panama City Fl.
                  Cutting with EX-21

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Hi Jeff,

                    Sorry you're having a hard time with the basket. It must be especially frustrating since you've had success before. There are only a few factors involved, so check them out. First, was your table set to the desired angle, or could it have been set slightly larger? When the basket won't drop enough, one reason is that the cutting angle is too large.

                    If that's not the problem, did you use a different blade? If the blade was too thin, that could cause it to bind instead of drop fully. And was the wood thicker than the last time? Thicker wood needs a smaller cutting angle.

                    If none of those seem to have happened, the blade might not have been fully tensioned, distorting the cut. Distortion is the last thing I can think of that would cause binding.

                    Hope this helps. Let me know what you find.
                    Carole

                    Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Thanks Carole for the quick response. I will give it another go this weekend and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again Jeff
                      If someone has great passion for what they do, it is not considered work

                      Jeff Robinson
                      Panama City Fl.
                      Cutting with EX-21

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Jeff, the only other thing that came to mind was whether you changed the size of the pattern. That can affect the cutting angle. Good luck!
                        Carole

                        Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Hello Carol,

                          I just received your book wooden boxes from a scroll saw. The ribbon box- the ribbon material calls for purpleheart, oak, red veneer and yellow veneer. You have no instructions on the glue up. For this. Does the yellow veneer go between the small red strip of veneer and purpleheart center? And I assume the yellow oak is the out side edge of ribbon? Also this is my first ever experience with veneer. Where is a good source for veneer and thin wood. Thanks for your help Karl

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Karl, look at Step 9 of the project. It gives the order of wood for the lamination.

                            Best source for all sorts of colors of dyed veneer is R&B rare woods, www.dyed-veneer.com. Constantine's is another good source, but they have a more limited array of colors. Since shipping costs are relatively high because of the need to wrap the veneer very securely, I usually buy a generous assortment. It never goes bad, and you'll find all sorts of uses for it. Just be sure to use plenty of glue and clamp it very tightly. I use a square version of my bowl press for it. There was a very good article by Dave van Ess on making a bowl press in the last issue, and worth having on hand for all sorts of clamping.

                            Let me know if you have any other questions. Also, don't forget that my color combos can be altered depending on your taste and what's available. What matters is that you reach the correct thickness or the patterns won't fit right. Even that can be adjusted, but it's an extra step that some folks are not comfortable taking.

                            Good luck. It's a neat little project, and the box is really pretty!
                            Carole

                            Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

                            Comment

                            Unconfigured Ad Widget

                            Collapse

                            Latest Topics

                            Collapse

                            Working...
                            X